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Help => Documentation => Topic started by: SixGun on April 08, 2014, 11:42:27 PM

Title: 75 PowerWagon rotor replacement
Post by: SixGun on April 08, 2014, 11:42:27 PM
Real good video on replacing rotor on 70's fulltime front axle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOQPQfKAuHU&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Title: Re: 75 PowerWagon rotor replacement
Post by: PowerWagonPete on January 06, 2015, 06:45:54 AM
LMFAO Gunner!!!  He'll be lucky if that fix lasts 1000 miles...   :tard:
Title: Re: 75 PowerWagon rotor replacement
Post by: SixGun on January 06, 2015, 07:43:26 AM
If you are you thinking what I'm thinking, he should have gone through the whole deal.  If you're gonna go that far, you might as well complete the job.  I would have changed both bearings, both seals, pack new fresh synthetic grease. I like the video because it takes the mystery out of taking these full times apart. Especially separating the rotor from the hub. A lot of guys refuse to invest in manuals or correct tools. It is still doable.

  :hello:
Title: Re: 75 PowerWagon rotor replacement
Post by: PowerWagonPete on January 06, 2015, 08:22:25 AM
Yeah Gunner, first of all, he should've never used semi-metallic brake pads or he wouldn't have had to change out that rotor to begin with.  I use composites and still have the original rotors on my '78.   :)

Second, the entire bearing set must be replaced even if just one component of it gets messed up.  They are matched sets and the stack should be installed exactly how they are packaged in the box.

Third, that spindle nut should never, ever be backed off.  Those are torqued to a minimum of 100 ft.-lbs. and further tightened until the slots line up with the hole in the axle end.

What a 'tard...  LOL   :tard: :tard:

And BTW, don't use those orange seals.  The factory green ones (SKF/Chicago Rawhide) are thicker and stay lodged in the steering knuckle and bearing cap bores much better.   ;D
Title: Re: 75 PowerWagon rotor replacement
Post by: SixGun on January 06, 2015, 08:34:59 AM
I noticed that spindle nut goof.  I remember having a long breaker bar and long cheater pipe and still not budging the nut.  Took lots of penetrating fluid and impact to get it to budge.  I've always read to torque and then continue to tighten to line up holes. That was a red flag when I saw it.  I never had to assemble mine since I did the knuckles out swap on mine to get the 5x5.5 bolt pattern.

That's why they give you lifetime warranty on semi-metallics.  Figure they will sell you rotors eventually. Those suckers overheat, squeal and don't grab like composites.

Thanks for the insight Pete.   :icon_salut: