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1976 Big Block RC build

Started by SixGun, July 27, 2012, 10:49:29 PM

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SixGun

Looks like JY hunting tommorrow for HEI parts. Guess I better the warranty with the parts just in case I get the wrong shit.   :laughing7:

Only GM product I've ever owned was a 72 Camaro and it was an experience I don't want to repeat for a lot of reasons.  Sounds good but if this HEI no workie, I'll be the first to burn it in a Ram Jam pit and grind it into the rocks at Hidden Falls.   :violent-smiley-007: 
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

Did some JY hunting today.  I went with a plan to get the HEI control module.  Never even made it to the Chebby section.

I found a factory gas tank stone guard on a 90 D250.  This is for the driver's side tank. It has 2 pieces that overlap and the tank  straps support the side and the nose piece attaches to the frame.  I knew they made them but I've never seen one.  I had to have it.

I have a 5 blade fan but this D250 had a 7 blade one and I snatched it also. This same truck was AC delete.  It had the large AC bracket but in the place of the compressor was a pulley.  Figured, somebody may need that.  The radiator was a decent 3 row but decided against it.

As I continued on, I ran across several 4x4's.  Unusual so I had to look for some goodies. One Ramcharger still had a complete dual exhaust.  I need exhaust so I plan to go back for it hopefully with some backup. It still had the transfer skid plate surprisingly.  I noticed that I am missing the u channel that it mounts to. Hope its there when I go back.  It was an 86 with a Quadrajet and Magnum exhaust manifolds - sweet.

"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

Found some exhaust pipes and mufflers today at Pick & Pull.  The pipes and mufflers were newish.  Looked like one of those JC Whitney dual exhaust kits that you piece together with 2 1/4" pipes.  Not expensive mufflers but in good shape. Someone had cut them off after the down pipes but for the price still a win-win @ $54.  They exit after the rear wheels. 

I also found another skid plate.  The one I have is missing the U channel that supports the back of it.  I also needed the bolts.  Figured on taking it all as one piece was easier and someone may need the extra skid plate. It was only $17 for the whole sheebang. 

I found a complete unmolested np208 setup in an 84? RC if any of you guys in the area are looking for one.  Clean as a whistle.  I could read the tag no problem.  Unusual for a 4X4 I thought.

I still haven't found a leaf spring clamp like mine.  I had one broken one that I need to replace.  I didn't realize there were so many types  used by Dodge.  Jeez Louise.   :icon_scratch:
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

ProjectPW

good score on the parts  :thumbsup: .... I would take that extra skid plate off your hands...
1979 W150 "TOP HAND", and way to many other mopars!

SixGun

No problem, I save it for you. :13:
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

 :sunny:  Took advantage of the nice weather the last couple of days. Installed the  new shackle flip hangers, new shackles and rear leaf springs. The poly bushings use some special grease and man is it sticky. 
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

Seems that I have temporarily ahem misplaced my front shackles. :angry4:  Wanted to get the front springs on but looks like I'll be wasting a day tearing the house and garage and shed apart looking for them.

So instead, I started to take apart the 91 D44 to do the knuckles out swap.  The brake calipers were a mess. I also have a steering block with the kit so took the 3 nuts off and pounded on it ten different ways but can't seem to get it to budge. So is there a trick to getting the locking cone washers to budge?.
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

crazzywolfie

could try putting a bit of atf on them. it might help free them up.

SixGun

#188
I've been reading all night about guys struggling with them.  Got a few more ideas like heating with a propane torch and double nutting the studs out.  From the looks of it, the ball joints will be just as fun. Also need to bring a bigger gun to the gun fight. Super dooper sledge  :violent1:  Gonna beat the Murphy out of it.

Edit:  I found the shackles.  I've been looking for the shipping box but they were in a small inner box about the size of a cell phone box.  In fact, I thought that's what it was.  All the while hiding in plain sight.

:bedtime2:  now I can sleep peacefully
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

#189
Well I got the steering arm off. :13:

Let's see, BFH, big chisel, pipe wrench, channel lock pliers, air hammer, PB blaster, propane torch, long cheater bar and an extra large can of elbow grease.  :laughing7:

Hope I can find some replacement cone wedges because I tore the shit out of them.
I started noticing that the 2 end ones were sticking up a bit and they came out easy.  The center one didn't want to play.  They say to hit the top of the stud with the nut on it.  However hammer on the ends of the arm closest to the outer studs and best of all with the axle flipped over if its off the truck like mine was and pound downwards.  This will dislodge the outer ones in good time with lots of heat and PB blaster of course. By the time I got to the center one I was an expert and knew that those dagblasted cones were the key.  So I hit them with the air hammer.  Once loose, used some channel locks to unscrew the cones from the studs.  The pipe wrench and cheater bar were to extract the studs.  I tried double nutting them but kept twisting off the stud.  Not enough thread it seemed like.  The lift kit came with a steering block and longer studs and nuts so I didn't have to worry about saving them.

Then I tried to remove the ball joints.  On the upper one I removed the castle nut but there is an inner lock nut.  I tried a punch and then an air hammer with no luck.  Maybe a spanner wrench IDK.  I went to three auto parts stores but no luck. So I stopped there.

Still plenty of daylight so I switched over to the front leaf springs. Two issues came up. T bushings are wider so I had to enlarge the front hangers. That took some work and then the shackle kit's bolts were barely long enough. I had to leave off the washers.  The shackles are thicker than stock but the bolts were shorter. That's a bad combination - go figure. Outside of that easy peasy.  Very productive afternoon.
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

ProjectPW

good luck with those ball joints... The little sleeve that uses a special spanner wrench is what sets your camber angle of the wheel. It has been a long time since I have done them, but I remember it being a royal PIA  :violent1: The depth that the sleeve sits in the knuckle is very important to making sure the wheels sit right

to far in  and the front wheels will look like this (as viewed from the front)  \-----/
to far out and the wheels will look  like this /----\

When I did mine I knew nothing about all this and I dont even remember what I usesd to remove the little sleeves ( maybe a homemade tool) I do know that I had nasty wear on the outer edges of the tread because my wheels looked like this \-----/ when I was done  :disgust:
1979 W150 "TOP HAND", and way to many other mopars!

SixGun

I actually found the tool by accident last night. I was telling a guy where I bought my ball joint socket and I saw it listed by the same company - Sunex.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0074HNIAG/ref=aw_d_dsc_hi
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

Ragman

For the special ball joint sleeve socket I just used and old 3/4 socket and took a cut off wheel and ground out the notches to fit on the end. Took a few times of trial and error to get the perfct shape but worked good. Torque was 50ft lbs on the sleeve if I remember right. On the ball joint removal I have always just beat on the outer upper part of the axle "C" right next to the joint with a BFH a few times and they pop right loose. It's easier with the rotor etc. removed. To remove them from the knuckle I have just punched them out with a BFH and a big chisle. Now putting the new ones in is lots easier with a joint press though.
1978 W150 Club Cab "Spare Change" 360/D44/D60/435/205
1963 Dodge Dart 360/833/8.75 sure grip
1996 Dodge Ram 5.9 4x4

SixGun

I went ahead and ordered the special socket from Amazon.  Figure for the price of a deep well socket and grinding wheel and my time ...ahem... it was worth it.

I haven't gone into removing the rotors yet. I was wondering if there is any special sockets or tool I will need?  I see those large 4 prong sockets at auto parts stores all the time. I don't see my truck listed for the applications.  Hope not.

I think I will have to fork over some cash for a ball joint press. Joints broken out on the trail will need one.  I've seen quite a few guys go threw them.  Don't wanna be that guy not prepared needing to bum equipment.
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

Ragman

I would like to buy a ball joint press but never have. I'm cheap and have not stepped up to the plate to buy one. The local O'reily's has free tool rental so I have just went that route. I debated on picking up a press from Harbor Freight but I have not heard good reviews on there ball joint presses. They bend or break under pressure.
1978 W150 Club Cab "Spare Change" 360/D44/D60/435/205
1963 Dodge Dart 360/833/8.75 sure grip
1996 Dodge Ram 5.9 4x4