RamCharger.net

The shifter for the doubler is a snug fit , but awesome hardware. The steering was also upgraded with a PSC kit and some awesome Jungle frame boxing kits

I have been building this truck for almost 15 years.  Dad has owned it since new off the show room floor! Here are some pics of the latest improvements

The Doubler was the main attraction on this overhaul

Quote from: SixGun on February 15, 2014, 08:27:42 AM
Ahhh... so I still need those dad burn ballast resistors.  I was reading some reviews of the Pertronix conversion and they either love or hate them.  Most seem to like them.  Have you used that particular brand?  I've seen kits by Mallory and others but I like that the Pertronix has a rev limiter and higher voltage. Just picking your brain.  I appreciate the input.  A lot cheaper than a $300 kit.

Here is a link to the low buck HEI conversion. Works great and very easy to get parts

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

Awesome trucks.... you have excellent taste 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-45111/overview/

I believe that this coil can be used without a ballast, the tech support @ pertronix could verify that though

Yes I have used the pertronix kits they are super easy to setup and as long as your distributor is in good shape will last a long time. You may be able to use it with an e-core style coil (low resistance) which would not require a ballast resistor, however, I have not tried that

Quote from: SixGun on February 14, 2014, 09:24:34 PM
Getting back to distributors, the motor came with a single point distributor.  I was leafing through a Summit catalog and saw an electronic conversion kit from Pertronix.  Ignitor series has 3 levels and changes it from points to hall effect. Fits under the distributor cap and runs about a $100.  Anyone ever use this system?  The motor is a 67.

Those are very good kits. I have used them a couple of times with good success. Just make sure the distributor shaft bushings are not worn on the distributor housing. The shaft should have no side to side wiggle and it should turn freely. They are a very simple install and will get rid of everybodys favorite melted ignition module on the firewall 

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/pertronix/part-type/electronic-distributor-conversion-kits/make/dodge/stock-distributor/yes/engine-size/6-3l-383/year/1967

there are 2 available for your application. the more expensive unit will give a bit more spark @ higher RPM. Make sure you you use a new coil and ballast resistor also. 

here is the link on how to use a gm hei ignition mudule and get rid of the ballast resistor:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/1311_convert_a_ford_or_chrysler_ignition_to_gm_hei/

these are good distributors...a bit spendy, but Eric has one and it is the easiest thing you can ever install/wire and looks cool. keep in mind it will need HEI style plug wire ends for the distributor cap 

http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/ignitions-electrical/part-type/distributors/make/chrysler/engine-size/6-3l-383/brand/davis-unified-ignition

Quote from: SixGun on February 12, 2014, 11:03:41 AM
Yep, we had been talking about him building the motor for me for about a year.  He has a guy that he uses for his motors to do the machine shop work.  Keeping it basically stock with a small cam upgrade and valve springs.  Ernest will do the assembly.  I had some parts shipped for it.  New damper, fuel pump, water pump and inlet.  I even sent some VHT in the color I wanted lol.  I had picked up a Mopar rear sump oil pan kit with dipstick and windage tray that I still need to get to him. 

Some things I still need are distributor (not sure what to go with) and possibly an oil pump depending on whether or not it comes with the motor work.  Long blocks I've had done in the past come with one.  Thing is, I've always heard that B/RB motors like hi volume but not hi pressure oil pumps.  Rebuilders don't like them on new motors though in my past experience. Any thoughts on this?

Looks like a big problem might be getting ahold of a big block power steering bracket for a truck.  High mounts are getting scarce apparently.

I would stick with a stock replacement distributor, preferably new Mopar. I have had good luck with a properly wired Mopar electronic ignition system, but there are other options such as a chevy HEI module wired in with an ecore coil which will get rid of the ballast resistor and be pretty cheap to rig and easy to find find parts for in a pinch. I have used the HEI conversion with great success on my 84 /6 truck with a mopar distributor. Keep in mind that a 383 is a low deck motor and I believe it uses a slightly shorter distributor than a high deck(440).

As far as oil pumps are concerned a stock replacement oil pump will be fine. Fancy oil pumps are for race cars running high RPM's.  The best thing to do is get a good
quality part. When in doubt call Mancini Racing as they will know whats best 

Cant help you on brackets, but you can blame Eric for steeling the one of your 383 

Is this where that 383 went  .....

Quote from: workgoats on February 07, 2014, 06:40:12 AM

As for those that can't make it, it is impossible to find a date that all can come.  The only thing is to set a date and live with it.  And I always found that the closer to the date, the more reasons will be found that it should have been another weekend.

Determine a date and I'll try to be there.

Ron you are very wise! When Eric's new RC is ready we WILL be making at least a day trip or maybe camp 1 night. This will probably be a late March or early/mid April thing! Y'all will know when the time has come as Eric may not be able to contain himself knowing that he may actually get to drive a Dodge @ Hidden falls!

April 20 = Easter

April 18-20 will work .... I have work to to do!  The Top Hand needs a run 

with a sleeve it needs to be pretty tight-- without a sleeve it will not be tight because it will just smash the bushing if it were--if you go sleeveless use a locking nut on your through bolts to keep em on there without smashing the bushing