i was wanting some other peoples input on this crack in my rad support. i noticed it a while ago but never thought much of it till today when i notice it had started opening up a bit. was thinking of sandblasting, drilling then welding it up but i was not sure if it will crack again or even why it cracked. i know the supports at the bottom are pretty rusty but didn't think that would hurt it. other option would be to buy a used rad support. managed to find one out of a 84 and the guy is asking $100 but i have no clue what shape it is in. i was wondering what other people thought. also could swap rad supports with my 91 but really like the look of the 81-85 grille.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7V6_WAMQpFY/UHMkT7BoFxI/AAAAAAAADcE/tMP1OFkzBeg/s720/IMAG0169.jpg)
If you are good at welding, weld it front and back and blend it with a 180 flap disk. Be sure to disconnect your battery negitive terminal before you weld it though.
i guess to do that i might have to remove the grille. i was planning on removing the battery all together if i weld it up. also was thinking about completely moving all the wiring harness out of the way to make sure nothing gets burnt.
I have 2 cracks in my radiator support on the 76 RC. I wonder how common this is?
i don't think it is too common. i was talking to my dad for a bit today and he gave me a bit of an idea. thinking about completely removing the rad support to fix all the rust and then possibly paint it. the only thing that would suck is i would have to clean all the crap out of the driveway and i would be down to driving the ram charger for a while. was also thinking about taking the fenders off while i was at it to fix the rust on them.
And that is how all projects start. Then you will remove doors to paint, then cab and bed, and "while I'm at it ill do frame" haha
lol. i don't think i will go that far. as much as i would like to, i only got about a month to go until we start seeing that nasty white stuff and i really don't want to be driving the ramcharger with its short wheel base and higher than normal stance. plus i don't have a garage so i would have to be doing this in my driveway.
they only crack when the front body mounts start to go bad / not the very fronts but the ones under your feet
i guess i should re enforce the mounts i made. i was thinking about slipping some stainless steel plates under them but not got around to it yet.
I've heard people say you should drill the end of the crack then weld the rest of it.
thats what i was planning to do.
You don't like driving the RC in the winter because of the wheelbase? Hmm, I liked the way they handle. Set of BFG AT's(32x11.50) and down the road I'd go, in 2wd. Felt solid too.
mine seems to have a bit more body roll than i feel comfortable driving with in the winter. the body roll does not seem to be there on my 81. plus my ram charger has way more rust than my 81. the ram charger could use 2 front cab mounts and 2 new floor pans which i can't afford to buy and don't have time to make. over the last couple of weeks it has started getting cold quick and the leaves have been falling.
Quote from: mttaff on October 13, 2012, 11:01:54 AM
I've heard people say you should drill the end of the crack then weld the rest of it.
The reason you drill the end of crack is so when you start welding it the heat will cause the metal to expand. When it's expanding the crack will run ahead of your weld puddle if you did not drill it, or I should say its prone to. You still weld the hole up. The hole is just a relief of sorts.
i just know it is suppose to stop the crack from getting longer. i don't know if the heat has anything to do with it. i know i am going to have to lay a couple spot welds before i even attempt to drill just to make sure things don't get worse.
Quote from: crazzywolfie on October 16, 2012, 12:19:13 PM
i just know it is suppose to stop the crack from getting longer. i don't know if the heat has anything to do with it. i know i am going to have to lay a couple spot welds before i even attempt to drill just to make sure things don't get worse.
Heat does strange things to thin steel. I am only throwing my 2 cents out there from my years of working for a custom fabrication shop as a fabricator and machinist. It don't always run or crack more but it won't run for sure if you drill it. If the crack is real long drilling the ends and a couple of spot tacks spaced evenly apart is a must. Don't forget to weld both sides if possible.
with how much rust there is and the way the weather has been i think i may just swap rad supports and grills with my 91. winter is on the way.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZwKarlE-YDs/UH3KO3CdJII/AAAAAAAADe4/NpHo2Nx-usA/s720/IMAG0172.jpg)
well i decided to try breaking the bolts free but had no luck. i think i might have to get my dad to come over with his snap on ratchet to break them loose or snap them trying. it really seems to be a 2 person job. someone to hold the wrench while someone turns the ratchet.
Quote from: crazzywolfie on October 17, 2012, 09:26:31 PM
well i decided to try breaking the bolts free but had no luck. i think i might have to get my dad to come over with his snap on ratchet to break them loose or snap them trying. it really seems to be a 2 person job. someone to hold the wrench while someone turns the ratchet.
I know that feeling after dealing with the bolts on the rear leaf springs. I ended up having to cut most of them away 5/8" grade 8 (even 20 years old and rusted) is very hard stuff.
Good luck
thanks. i don't think i will be cutting the bolts. i know there is not enough room to hit them from the bottom. not sure if there is enough room to hit them with a grinder on top. i think i will either break them free or snap them trying. a nice 1/2" snap on ratchet just makes things easier but a cheater bar might be used.
Quote from: crazzywolfie on October 18, 2012, 09:11:53 AM
thanks. i don't think i will be cutting the bolts. i know there is not enough room to hit them from the bottom. not sure if there is enough room to hit them with a grinder on top. i think i will either break them free or snap them trying. a nice 1/2" snap on ratchet just makes things easier but a cheater bar might be used.
I had a 1/2 snap on breaker bar with a 2' cheater bar on it. I was bouncing my whole body off the sucker and the spring bolts did not even budge!!!!
The core support on the 91 and 92 were both a lot easier than that, I don't think it will be too bad for you.
ya. i managed to break them both loose the only thing that sucks is there was a bit more rust than i thought there was and i think i have no choice but to swap with my 91. my rad support is in real bad shape. i took the bolt and a lot of metal/rust came out with it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kliIfh4I_Sc/UIAnLVy3GII/AAAAAAAADgA/s9HTfwNQlW4/s720/IMAG0176.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qR0LwM74VTY/UIAnIWq8dPI/AAAAAAAADf4/8-J1g_Skbnw/s512/IMAG0177.jpg)
Hey, how long are those bolts? I bought a body bushing kit for my 77 and none of the bolts were the same length. I know they're 1/2" but don't really have a clue on what would be close to proper length. Obviously someone has played in there before. ::) I had the front clip off not only to pull engine/trans but the frame had to be plated and welded. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
In my opinion the bolts are too long. I just got my first minor injury while trying to get the rad support bolts out on my 91. I might be able to measure the bolts when I get home.
the bolt i removed from the rad support in my 81 is 2 3/4" long.
i had no luck getting the rad support out of my 91. i took out all the bolts but i guess i have to take the hood and fenders off to get the rad support out. hoping to get my dads help since he now has his truck back.
I have seen people do it without taking the fenders off, but you do have to unbolt the fenders.
Anytime I have done it I have taken the fenders and hood off.
well from the sounds of it i will be getting my dads help tomorrow so we will be able to get the hood and fenders off. i just have not been able to see how to slide the rad support out without taking at least 1 fender off.
with my dads help we had the rad support out in less than 30 minutes. since it took almost no time at all and we were there anyway i decide to pick up another upgrade for my 81 since it was just sitting there in my 91 not being used.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mC8VAQRmpC0/UIRo8-wagZI/AAAAAAAADg4/CkbU9HN54VI/s720/IMAG0182.jpg)
Quote from: crazzywolfie on October 22, 2012, 01:45:40 PM
with my dads help we had the rad support out in less than 30 minutes. since it took almost no time at all and we were there anyway i decide to pick up another upgrade for my 81 since it was just sitting there in my 91 not being used.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mC8VAQRmpC0/UIRo8-wagZI/AAAAAAAADg4/CkbU9HN54VI/s720/IMAG0182.jpg)
why is the 91 just sitting there?
because emissions testing and lots of rust. it has all the same rust sixgun's truck has over the windshield. needs a cab mount and and drivers side floor pan. plus i also screwed the engine. the old oil pan had a good hole in it and i didn't realize till it was too late and it had already started to develop what sound like a rod knock. any vehicle 88 and newer will require emission test. i could not get the original v6 engine to run right so i swapped to the 318 and never really got to finishing it. since i got the RC the 91 has pretty much became a parts truck since i can't work on all 3. i am having difficulty just keeping up the maintenance on 1 let alone all 3. lately i have been thinking about just stripping it for parts and scrap what i can't cut up and use.
yeah that rust is no fun. I am working on sixgun to buy my 318 from the 91 since it should be a easy swap. i have the harness and computer for it.
he is trying to figure out how to make it work, i think lol
i can tell you he may need the motor mount extension plate that may have been in the ramcharger that you got rid of. i know my 91 needed a motor mount extension plate on the drivers side to fit that 318 in there. after looking at my 93 ram charger i got to see what a factory motor mount extension plate look like. now if sixgun wanted to get a magnum 318 i think he could get that to bolt in to his motor mount brackets.
yeah we talked about that this weekend. I need to get some measurements and see how they compare.
CW have you got a pic to look at so I can see what I'm looking for?
unfortunately i don't. it is almost impossible to get a picture of the factory mount extension plate with the engine and crap installed. i know because i went to try showing my dad the other day and realized you can't see nothing from the top. i might try to get a picture tho. it could come in handy.
I need to go hunt the JY with a camera to get some pics so I have some comparison and get some prices lined up. I'm sure I can find a crossmember but they don't allow power tools at the pic n pull so I will have to pay them to remove it too. I'm afraid of going through all that and getting the wrong one.
The biggest reason to get the 318 is for towing the new rig when it's done. Ryan even says the ac comp goes with the motor. Yee haw what else could I ask for? I work retail and we are heading into the Christmas season which is balls to the wall work, 6 day work weeks with very little time off. Looking at the new year at the earliest. Definately want to do this but need to get my ducks in a row first. Sorry Ryan.
BTW any updates on the radiator support CW?
no real updates. i don't think i will be able to do much till Thursday because of the weather. got lots of rain in the forecast and possibly some snow at the beginning of next week. i did order some new headlamp adjusting screws since my old ones were kind of broken and really rusty.
now if you are looking through junkyard you should see if you can find the extension plate. i have wondered if some of the newer ram vans had a motor mount extension plate since they seem to use the same motor mounts as the older truck. could also possibly build your own if have the time. i used cardboard to make a template for mine then cut out of some heavy steel and and welded it up. mine pretty much bolted up to the factory holes. i was meaning to drill a hole through my bracket into the frame but never got around to it.
So this ext plate is not part of the K member? Can I just bolt this plate onto my K member or how does it work?
ya. it just bolts on k member with 2 or 3 bolts and then 1 into the frame. it would replace the triangle shaped one that would that that dies not extend.
i tried to get a pic from underneath. i managed to get a lot better pic than i thought i could of. you can see the one into the frame and one of the bolts into the k member.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QJVu-HH6KbA/UIbwaJ_M0xI/AAAAAAAADhk/TpqAVEMtsa4/s720/IMAG0190.jpg)
So is there really a need for the new k member or just the extension? Is it bolt on or does it need to be welded?
that is it. it is just bolted on. i guess the bolts are a bit hard to see through all the rust. i also think 1 bolt is hiding behind the mount.
My 91 and 93 don't have that. I did some searching and could not find anything on dakota's or newer trucks as far as needing adapters.
The 3.9l is a 5.2l with 2 cylinders chopped off, so it would seem like the mounting distance would be the same. Who knows, I will try to measure some today while working on the 91 and see.
I am not in a hurry to get rid of the engine, but it will be nice to get it out of my garage sometime soon. Here before long I will need all 3 spots for parking cars. As it is now the 3rd car bay is full of engines and truck parts lol.
but if you think of it the ears on the v8 are on the front of the engine so if you cut 2 cylinders off the ears would have to have to moved back or the v6 would be sitting fairly far ahead.
i think dakota and newer trucks just used different motor mounts out of the box. maybe since your trucks were 4x4 they did not have one. maybe it was a 2wd only thing
could be, the only 2wd's I have are a 03 durango with a 4.7 and a 00 Ramcharger, and its mounts are different as well.
:icon_scratch: Don't know why I didn't think of it before but I have a 91 FSM and looked it over to compare. The K member is still in question but looking at the bolt holes it appears that the mounts on the K member are the same for 3.9 vs 5.2. There is an offset bracket that is the same as CW's pic shows that will be needed for the drivers side. It doesn't show the brackets to the block though so that is questionable. One thing that CW mentioned and I see in the FSM is that the K members and all else is different from 4x vs 2x. So that's why Rjtx didn't need or have the adapter. Okay so I know we discussed this before and you will need the bracket to the block but Ryan can you take some pics of yours for comparison to mine. The bigger one is on the passenger side. Sooo sorry to hijack your thread Mat. This issue always seems to come your way no matter which forum. LOL
Ryan, I know you need the space so let me see what I can do about making it happen sooner. :BangHead: :040:
i don't mind getting off topic. i always seem to jump into the v6 to v8 swap since i have been through it once. the brackets you have on your current engine look like they would bolt to a magnum engine. maybe one day we will have a thread dedicated to v6 to v8 swaps.
this is a picture of a v8 magnum. you can see the newer magnum mounts which is the 3 holes and the older LA engine motor mount ears. there is one one each side of the number 6
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cwBPGIvNf5Q/UD1n7oS8ORI/AAAAAAAADPk/0a-pihD1xH4/s640/SANY0226.jpg)
maybe this will help some.
this is a shot of my k member and then the mounts on the 318 TBI
Okay I see what you are talking about the ears vs. triangle bolt pattern. So I need to get the bracket that mounts to the motor since it is a TBI with "ears" and the adapter for the driver's side and that's it. I think the K member is okay from what I can see. Next day off next week is dedicated for boneyard hunting. Thanks guys! :icon_salut:
hopefully you find what you need. i know it will probably be a pain in the but if you have to remove them yourself but will be worth it.
don't forget to order yourself up some new engine mounts from rockauto as well. heck might be worth doing the tranny mounts at the same time.
ok. kind of back one topic. it has turned out to be a fairly beautiful day. managed to get the old rad support out without too much trouble. ended up doing some sand on some very rusty parts and blew some tiny hole in the metal :crybaby2:. i figure at least i am getting rid of the major rust that was there. i have been filling in some of the tiny holes with paint :laughing7:. at least the stuff that has rust is just mainly cosmetic. no weight is really put out it. now onto the pictures
it looked real mean with no grille so i just had to take a pic
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X4OX9XclQ-8/UImO50mREWI/AAAAAAAADls/p23g3YBawcM/s720/IMAG0198.jpg)
rust. lot and lots of rust
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4RT8AeTOo4w/UImOm1mTQLI/AAAAAAAADl0/PlcnPV2PU6Q/s720/IMAG0202.jpg)
more rust
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IuoqnXmtvVM/UImOzrhG7OI/AAAAAAAADl4/YEOGGvcCt3Q/s720/IMAG0201.jpg)
starting to paint. you can see some of the holes i made
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BqEZXgQrWz0/UImNfWcy3nI/AAAAAAAADlw/k31U0yEz64Y/s720/IMAG0214.jpg)
thats it for now. back to work i go
they make some stuff, I have to find the can I have... but you spray it on and it kills rust and primes over it. Might be better than paint.
Quote from: rjtx667 on October 25, 2012, 07:25:24 AM
don't forget to order yourself up some new engine mounts from rockauto as well. heck might be worth doing the tranny mounts at the same time.
Actually just put new trans mount and engine mounts after the lift was done.
CW, I like the way some maple leaves ended up in the pics. How classic is that?? :laughing4:
them damn leaves kept getting into my freshly painted parts so i had to move the parts i could to where there was not as many leaves :angry5:. i think por15 has stuff that kills rust and is thick enough to fill holes but i was in a rush and did not have enough time to get some. i just got some used tremclad rust paint. it was not super expensive but it was not the cheapest i could find. i can always sandblast the paint off at a later date. paint blasts off a lot easier than rust.
i do got to say i am done working on the truck for the night
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1BGg18oJHGg/UInmjMkPMlI/AAAAAAAADnA/T7JjgkzAGfI/s720/IMAG0219.jpg)
Quote from: crazzywolfie on October 19, 2012, 04:19:28 PM
the bolt i removed from the rad support in my 81 is 2 3/4" long.
i had no luck getting the rad support out of my 91. i took out all the bolts but i guess i have to take the hood and fenders off to get the rad support out. hoping to get my dads help since he now has his truck back.
[/quote
Thanks man.
got most of the stuff done before it started to rain. just have to tighten a few nuts and bolts and put the grille on and it will be done.
heres a pic of the old rad support. i am not sure if i could have fixed it after i more thoroughly looked at it.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SCflJBr-6vA/UIsDvPX6iuI/AAAAAAAADoE/ZVNsRokRTvE/s1024/IMAG0221.jpg)
that's pretty bad, good choice to replace it
ya. i also like how the rad actually fits properly in the 91's rad support. before the rad was held in with 2 nuts and bolts and was partially blocked by the rad support. now it is held in by 3 bolts and the nut things that are incorporated into the rad support. should be running a bit cooler with all that extra air blowing through it.