Ill get some pics up once i get home, workin on a towboat atm. I started reconstruction on my 87 about a year ago, small budget so slow progress but its come a long ways from dying on the side of the road and carrying oil and water around. So far, and not in any particular order, ive replaced- water pump, fuel pump, timing cover gasket, intake manifold, carburetor, tires, all u joints, fluids, radiator, radio, dimmer switch, headers, and exhaust. Think i got it all. Still a long way to go, about to swap the steering shaft to the borgeson when i get home and swap to a single piece speedo cable.
Nice... Glad to see another one rescued.... What area you in??
Welcome to the site. :wave:
All three of mine were rescues too. Some of them need more rescuing than others. :laughing7:
Im up around Livingston area, near ace
Good lookin' RC... take care of it :13:
It looks good from far away lol bought it with rattle can paint job so its got some rust.
I need some tips, even before i put the 35s on it it just has no balls. Edelbrock performer intake, performer carb, headers, maybe just gears but im hitting 3500 rpms at 75mph
Mine has 3.55's and hits about the same rpms at 75. I have a tach and keep it at 3 grand or less. Otherwise, it starts eating a lot of gas and gradually warm up a bit. Speed ends up about 65 -70.
I have a tach too, i push mine to 5k sometimes. I put a 3 core radiator from a 360 on it and mine doesn't warm up anymore, mostly the larger tranny cooling capacity helped with that.
And as for gas, ill just keep feedin it. :)
But uphill is pitiful, takeoff is pitiful. Jumps out of its shoes in low but in high its just not what i expected.
you need a cam... that or a 408 :laughing7:
I was afraid someone would say that, ive never installed or adjusted a cam have you?
Also, keep seeing pics of these deep cupholders, definitely want to do that!
Quote from: bullboy0852 on March 27, 2015, 07:29:27 AM
Also, keep seeing pics of these deep cupholders, definitely want to do that!
A screwdriver and a butter knife carefully popped them out. Lot cheaper than buying another console.
Mine are like 1/2 in deep molded into the console
I have done a cam before, doing 1 right now.
Its not bad... and it makes a world of difference.
Just have to take your time, clean the surfaces real good and notice how everything goes together.
I don't recall, have to ask Noah, your 87 might have solid lifters... but I think it has rollers. solid lifters have different break in requirements than roller lifters. It also determine what kind of cam you need. roller cams cost more, but usually last better. You have a LA block, so its easier to find the right cam. Magnum can have a long snout (for a fuel pump) and a short snout for fuel injection.
I would look at either Mopar, Comp, or Crane cams. I have used Crane and Comp and both work good... the older LA blocks something like the purple Mopar cam I hear is good.
Whatever cam you get you need to make sure it can either work with the factory springs on the valves, or that you upgrade the valve springs. While your in there it might be a good time to take the heads off and get a valve job... just depends on your millage and condition of the engine. I have the philosophy that if I am in there replace what wears out and avoid having to go in again. Granted on my dana 44, that came back to bite me and I destroyed the axle because of a new ujoint :evil6:
There is also a good chance your timing chain and gears are shot.. Chrysler used some nylon type teeth that wore out bad. get a new double roller.
I would say the work is usually about a 2 weekend job.. 1 weekend to tear it down and get the heads off, get them to the shop to be rebuilt. 1 weekend to put it back together.
You have to remove the dizzy, so that means you have to find TDC and re-stab it and hopefully not get it out 180*
Just look at all the parts and replace what you think is bad. If you look at my 93 thread, you can see I am replacing lots of parts. The cam had some damage from the overheating of the blown head gaskets, so I am replacing the cam, lifters, push rods, etc.
Also very import (at least on the magnums) ALWAYS use new intake bolts... they can break off and be a real PITA if that happens. New head bolts are not required, but for the price its not a bad idea.
I bet Noah will pipe in with the stuff I missed sometime soon.
Gonna have to run the numbers on the block i have not a clue if its original. Guy i bought it from said he rebuilt the engine.
look on the bottom and you will see 318 or 360.
you can tell if it has magnum heads or la heads by the number of bolts in the valve covers. 10 bolts are magnum heads, otherwise it's LA
You can put magnum heads on a LA block but I don't know many that do.
Quote from: bullboy0852 on March 27, 2015, 09:17:52 AM
Mine are like 1/2 in deep molded into the console
Mine were too. I took a dremel tool and cut them out. The deep cup ones are pop ins. They have 4 notches to keep them in.
1st pic is the donor and the 2nd is mine after the install.
Ok, scratch the cam, shes my daily cant afford that much downtime. But i am picking up another R/C when i get home, just 2x, so ill build that one and drive this one until then.
you could probably do it in a weekend, but with the risk of issues I would not roll those dice if its your daily driver.
My 93 has been tore apart for 2 weeks now waiting on the heads, machine shop went show and dropped the ball :violent1:
Picking them up tomorrow morning.
Yah ill just wait, rebuild this other engine and tranny and drop em in, if the tranny will even work with the transfer case. What i really want is an older dodge pickup with a slant six for a daily then i can frankendodge the R/C lol
I would not want a truck with a slant 6... the stock 5.2 is gutless enough :laughing7:
now the 408 in my mexico ramcharger... that gave it some serious balls :evil6:
it was not cheap, and maybe not real practical... but man its fun :great:
I want the slant six for fuel economy, back and forth to work, just a bare bones truck that can sit in Houston for months on end gettin blasted by salt. Its killin the R/Cs hood
Been checking out lockers any suggestions? Gotta see what axle and ratio i have when i get home.
Got the steering shaft on, new distributor tomorrow before i head out. Having serious troubleshooting issues with a random intermittent non-start type problem. Sometimes it cranks and will shut straight down. Sometimes it wont run at all. Sometimes it'll go 400 miles no problem. Its driving me nuts.
have you checked the ballast resister? almost sounding like what is wrong with it.
Nah, never dealt with one before. Looks brand new though. Is there a way to test it?
They are only a couple of bucks. If that's not it you have a spare.
What time are you gonna be at HF?
Quote from: bullboy0852 on April 16, 2015, 05:21:02 PM
Got the steering shaft on, new distributor tomorrow before i head out. Having serious troubleshooting issues with a random intermittent non-start type problem. Sometimes it cranks and will shut straight down. Sometimes it wont run at all. Sometimes it'll go 400 miles no problem. Its driving me nuts.
Hard to diagnose problem... but if you can get it to hidden falls the collective knowledge can certainly get you pointed in the right direction... in the mean time dont turn it off :evil6:
What he said, start driving now! :laughing4:
Lol im leaving around 12:30, got a new dizzy at the partz house at 12. Never made the trip so idk how long it'll take, im guessing 4-6 hours
Quote from: bullboy0852 on April 16, 2015, 06:30:44 PM
Nah, never dealt with one before. Looks brand new though. Is there a way to test it?
should be able to test it with a multi meter or you could just bypass it for a minute. if you connect the 2 wires together and your truck runs then your ballast resister is most likely bad. the starter relay has a power wire that bypasses the ballast resister when cranking so it may fire while cranking but die the moment you stop cranking.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5qW2AXE-Uio/Te0EGl3NiDI/AAAAAAAABQg/YD6_LJIM2Zc/s360/2.jpg)
Next question, what if the resistor is not hooked up? Cuz i looked and it isnt.
Quote from: bullboy0852 on April 16, 2015, 09:50:39 PM
Next question, what if the resistor is not hooked up? Cuz i looked and it isnt.
It would not run at all unless someone has bypassed it. The coil is running full battery voltage at all times if this was done w, which depending on the coil could be OK or not
Factory coil, was running perfect, still does when its in a good mood lol
Parts on order, have to wait til i get back home to do install. New cam and lifters and timing set. Cam is worn bad, number 3 exhaust is not even moving and multiple cylinders barely moving, prolly a lot to do with the power issue. Gonna try out the mopar purple cam, got the 1-5k rpm range get a lil more bottom end. Good news is the ignition is solid now, fires right up just bumping the starter every time and doesn't die til the keys turned off. Gotta take the bad with the good i reckon. :)
Quote from: bullboy0852 on April 23, 2015, 07:25:18 AM
Parts on order, have to wait til i get back home to do install. New cam and lifters and timing set. Cam is worn bad, number 3 exhaust is not even moving and multiple cylinders barely moving, prolly a lot to do with the power issue. Gonna try out the mopar purple cam, got the 1-5k rpm range get a lil more bottom end. Good news is the ignition is solid now, fires right up just bumping the starter every time and doesn't die til the keys turned off. Gotta take the bad with the good i reckon. :)
yup... been there.... eventually the list is much shorter :13:
good progress, sorry to hear about all your issues.... but that seems to be how it goes. fix something and make it stronger and better, then you find the next weak link... rinse and repeat. :laughing7:
Good luck getting it all together and running good. What timing set did you order?
Its a summit racing double roller. Dont think its adjustable but i didnt see any that i liked.
I wanted the gear drive but an extra 350 bucks is a bit steep.
Should i go ahead and do cam bearings and dizzy intermediate shaft while im in there?
the intermediate shaft has to come out to get the camshaft out. You can clean it... but no need to replace it unless its broke.
Mine on the 93 was a real PITA to get out... I have never had that hard of a time, it had oil caked on it over and over... but I got it out, cleaned it up and it was fine.
The cam bearings you have to have a machine shop press them in (as far as I know) so I would check them and if they look good, leave them.
K sounds good
make any progress on it?
Yah got it in but its ticking and im not sure if the dizzy gear is in the correct spot either, hard to start and dies when i stop sometimes. Talkin to ernest trying to figure it out. Ticking may be exhaust leaks from the holes under the exhaust ports.
Ive about got it right, gonna pull the engine next time in and fix all the leaks, rear main and im thinking camshaft galley plug or whatever its called are leaking close to 5 qts per gas stop, and thats 50 weight oil. Also blew out a few valve seals setting the timing. Looking into buying a set of heads and pulling the pistons as well, new rings and whatnot.
Thats a lot of oil its drinking there :confused2:
I might suggest you try to find you a used block, they are cheap on craigslist a lot of the times. Then just work to rebuild it from the ground up and swap over when you have it all done.
Then you still have something to drive in the mean time. You could always go with a Magnum block and heads with a long snout cam for the fuel pump and a LA style timing cover.... keep it carb but get the benefits of a magnum block and heads. Lots of choices to think about.
At least your making progress :13:
Eh, im already into this one a bit, im just gonna keep at it until its just right
I need some advice, I have a 88 rc. 318 auto trans, 4wd. Over heated and blew out a head gasket. Replaced the head gaskets, intake gaskets. Valve cover gaskets, just had radiator repaired, checked thermostat to ensure it opens, still getting to the boiling water stage.
I would suggest opening a new thread under help/ troubleshooting
but to start i would check your water pump and fan clutch
I hate to even say it but in Carter it appeared that the previous owner was battling overheating problem and it turned out to be a cracked block.
Mine quit overheating with the 360 3 core radiator and a good cleaning of the water passages. Pulled freeze plugs and the amount of dirt in the passages wouldn't allow water to come out still. Id check that before a new pump or you'll eat it too.
Also if you're driving it on the highway look into an external transmission cooler, they weren't made for 70mph speed limits, mine would slowly climb in temp on the longer trips. Lufkin to Houston id be pushing 230 on the temp guage, now it never reaches 220, mostly runs around 195-200
i think the stock trans cooling system should be ok for 70mph limits. i would guess your still running the stock mechanical fan and would never notice it but with electric fans i find the bottom half of the rad usually stays pretty cool. it would not hurt to install and external cooler but not necessarily needed. have you possibly also considered installing and external trans filter? i just figure it you install an external cooler it would be so easy to ad a external filter and i have been reading the external filters seem to catch so much more than the stock internal one. i have actually been thinking about doing this to my vehicles
I hadn't thought of an external filter, be something to look into. I ditched the clutch fan and got a flex, but electric fans are in the future, just have other parts suckin cashflow right now.
May actually have to scrap this engine and get a jegs if this water continues, they're evacuating ppl in my area now, told Tosh to grab my gun and my truck but idk if she can find someone to drive it out, she has to take her truck.
i forget what got me thinking of the external filter but from what i read it should help keep the fluid clean plus it would be way easier to change. ya electric fans are nice. i really don't notice any difference between them and the stock fan other than the truck is a bit quieter and hits operating temp quicker with the electric fans.
hopefully it don't come to that. that would definitely suck
Quote from: bullboy0852 on May 27, 2015, 06:03:42 PM
I hadn't thought of an external filter, be something to look into. I ditched the clutch fan and got a flex, but electric fans are in the future, just have other parts suckin cashflow right now.
May actually have to scrap this engine and get a jegs if this water continues, they're evacuating ppl in my area now, told Tosh to grab my gun and my truck but idk if she can find someone to drive it out, she has to take her truck.
might send Ernest a text, not sure how far away he is... then there is a few other members around... post something in the help section, maybe someone can.
Hopefully it will be ok.
We missed the flooding by a few miles thankfully. Hope everyone else is doing well.
Well its been a while but got a decent phone so I'm back. Haven't done a lot to the truck, did replace the motor mounts, plugged the egr manifold holes, and all new exhaust and gaskets. Headers still frickin leak. Gonna get a rebuilt 318 as I'm leaking compression in all cylinders and it comes out cheaper and more reliable than a home rebuild.
Do have a question though, any difference in the roller 318 and the non roller? I'd like to go with the roller but will my stuff bolt onto that block and heads? The roller says its from 86-97 or something like that.
Also replaced u-joints, bearings and races, and spindle nuts on my driver side, lifted the truck and had about 8 inches of wobble!!! Never even made a sound! Scary stuff, drives straight now lol
Also got the seat latch in and after 4 hours and exhausting YouTube got the latch on the glovebox changed put, that thing was tricky. Many parts being refurbished from the 2wd before I put em on, a\c is next on the list for moab next year.
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Mounted the coil up high, changed out the "fire" breather, exhaust is out the rear but will have to change it hits everything in flex. Replaced the seat latch, painted the glovebox
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Question, how do I get the 4wd light to go out? Is the switch on the axle disconnect or t-case, can't find it in the haynes
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usually that is the switch on the axle tube near the cad disconnect.
K, have to pull it and see what's up that's annoying at night
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:thumbsup: keep at it!
OK so I did a very bad thing in a moment of despair and necessity... I oiled up as I left the house for work, got almost halfway there and oil was dry. I didn't get paid yet and had no more oil at hand so I refilled it with 80-140 gear oil. Surprisingly, all chatter from the engine was eliminated and no more smoke cloud. Still burning it but at a much lower rate. Now, how bad is it?
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hahaha that is funny but it is something exactly like i would do. i don't think you will do any damage. oil is oil. gear oil is just a lot thicker oil. as long as you didn't fill it full of gear oil should be fine. i am pretty sure i have probably done the exact same thing at one point or another. i have also topped up with ATF when i had nothing else. also if you know your burning oil it probably wouldn't hurt to run something a bit thicker like 15w40. i ran that stuff in my truck and it seemed to run just fine with it.
I've run 60w race oil and every diesel/tractor oil I can try, 100 bottles of stop leak, I've tried it all man she's just wore slap out somewhere.
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have you replaced the valve seals? i know mine are shot. i have been thinking of replacing them but just not got around to it yet. i even got a complete set to replace them all.
Yah I just did the valve seals
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Selling this one too if anyone's interested
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OK, not selling this one. Got a new daily and get to keep this one for play. :)
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New daily
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Finally got the engine tore open, just bored and piddling. This is the destruction. I was wondering, has anyone ever sleeved a 318? And could it be done to this one? Half the bore is gone but I would assume you'd remove it anyhow to sleeve it, never seen one done so idk how it works.
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Ouch !! Looks like a lot of carnage.
Can probably find a running 318 for cheaper. You would need to sleeve the block but also, you would need new rods, rebuild kit and prep the block. Lotsa money.
yeah man that block is toast.... you are better of finding a used but decent motor and start over
I was afraid of that
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Well we have come upon free so I won't turn away from the work. This truck will be donating it's fuel injected 360 Magnum to the R/C, along with many parts to make it work. The rest of the truck is going to scrap unless someone wants bits off it. It's an 8 lug rear axle, haven't looked to see what it is yet
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sweet. can't go wrong with free. i wouldn't be surprised if you found lots of people interested in parts off that thing and make some pretty good money. looks pretty clean and rust free to me.
It is, used to be my step father's work truck, I blew out the reverse in the transmission and it's been parked since, he cranked it up every once in a while. All the plastic on the driver's side got melted when the truck next to it caught fire and the interior is pretty rough.
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most of the time people don't usually worry too much about plastic or trim as long as the panels are straight and rust free. i know a good straight rust free box usually goes for $500+ here but then again everything rusts out here. i know next summer i am going to have to get a new fender for my 89 before i even consider doing any bodywork or paint to it.
Awesome you wont regret the swap. Let me know if you have any questions.
I will, and I have an 87 fender, will it fit your 89?
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Coming along nicely. Update: swapped for a n almost new 318, few thousand miles on it. Hopefully get to crank it this weekend :)
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Getting a lil huff and puff, a lil fire and smoke but she won't start. Having a brain fart...
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A couple of things always seem to come up on a motor swap.
1) Double check that you are on TDC
2) Double check your firing order
Good Luck
Firing order=perfect. Tdc shouldn't have moved, the gear stays inside the engine when you pull the dizzy, you're either spot on or 180 out. I am getting puffs of flame out of the exhaust ports occasionally but not regularly as right now I'm pouring gas into the carb, it's not wanting to prime
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Fuel line had two large holes in it at the fuel pump suction side. Still haven't seen any fuel however, wondering if the tank side connection is any good??? This is turning out to be a nightmare going to let the battery charge, read through the Chilton again, and send up some prayers.
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