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I used to take that approach, but now days I have a different one.... If I am hip deep into something, replace everything that could need replacing so I don't have to go back in there again.

As long as you use quality parts it seems to work good. Point being the lifters should be replaced if your in the engine after 50k miles...  I don't know if he did or not, if you replace lifters you need to replace push rods.

The timing set he told me was re-used, and he did not put a tensioner in there. The new timing set is billet so will not need the tensioner as it does not stretch.

I have to take the intake off to fix the broken bolt, which gives me access to the lifters and push rods. While off I will replace all the intake bolts with new. Since the water pump has to be swapped as well as the timing chain I will replace those bolts as well. All new bolts are stainless steel and should look really good when its back together.

I ordered the valve cover items as the bolts were not the right ones (and not pretty) and he did not have the right gaskets or parts for the valve covers.

All in all I am not doing much to the engine, just verifying its all good before it goes back in.

I also broke down and bought a tuner for it yesterday, it hurt a bit but I think it should help. Since its from mx no one can confirm that the tuner will work, but we think it will?    If not I guess I will find a new computer and see what functions I loose and work around it.

I have a dr appt this afternoon, then after that I plan to hit the engine hard (and prep the truck) so I can start pulling stuff early tomorrow. Richard you need to live closer so we can help each other more often 

I did buy fender covers to protect the paint, I don't want anything happening to it.

It's only 271 miles one way.... heck we're practically neighbors.   

Quote from: SixGun on January 23, 2013, 06:40:58 PM
It's only 271 miles one way.... heck we're practically neighbors.   

in that case come on over tomorrow and help me 

I got the intake taken off and the broken bolt was not the issue I feared

I should have never gotten out of bed today...

leakdown test 2 & 8 leak on exhaust valves. great so I pull both heads and take them to machine shop that did the work, yeah no warranty because they told him the springs were too stiff and it would not work. 320 or more $$ to fix.

oh and to boot... yeah stock heads no porting no polishing and no stainless steel valves.

oh the lifters and pushrods.... yeah not new at all. I will post pics later.

now I am going to go talk to the guy and see if we can work out how to correct his mistakes

Ok so pics....

First two are the "new" push rods

Next two the "new" lifters... They could possibly be new, except they don't match! they are not all the same. And the wear marks on them are very strange.
5th is the head that was leaking, you can see TONS of carbon build up, most likely because it was running too cold and not combusting completely... guess thats what happens when you don't have a t stat installed?

The last is of the pistons. You can tell they are not stock and do match the the item he claimed they were, or at least close they are 4" exactly so he gave the wrong part number as that part number was for a 30 over bore. 

guess we shall see how it goes when we meet up.

Ouch.... that's gotta sting.   

that sucks but when your done it will be a mean pavement eating machine.

Well it suxs bad because I would not have bought the thing if he had said "yeah it has factory heads, not a thing done to them at all besides springs that are too stiff and will probably ruin the cam if you don't change them" 

But then again I am sure if he said that to anyone they would not buy it lol

So what will the machine shop have to do for $300 to make the heads useable?

complete valve job (again) new stock valves and new correct stiffness springs.

then I need new head gasket, intake gasket, valve cover gaskets, still need to replace timing chain so that and a gasket then put it all back together to have a stock top end with a mild cam

Well the more I thought about it, the more worried I was about the bottom end.

So this morning I hauled the short block up to the machine shop. They are going to dip, inspect, hone, replace all bearings and rear main. Polish the crank, check the cam and balance.

Then put it all back together.

I just did not want to risk putting it in, I am now looking into some Iron Ram heads instead of re-doing the stock heads. I should be able to get some core back for a set of good heads so that would help.

But I hate putting $$ into heads that I know can't flow the way I need them to for the engine I want, even if I don't port or polish the heads yet they still flow better than stock or R/T heads.

Oh They are also verifying the pistons and CR to make sure its not above 9.5:1

Guess we will see what happens when it gets back to me, whenever that is   

which iron rams were you thinking of getting? there seems be some on e-bay that seem like they are fairly cheap and the guys on dodge forum seem to mention them enough. 

Quote from: crazzywolfie on January 26, 2013, 05:42:33 PM
which iron rams were you thinking of getting? there seems be some on e-bay that seem like they are fairly cheap and the guys on dodge forum seem to mention them enough.

the machine shop has a relationship with them, so I will see what the quote first. otherwise I am not sure. either eBay or Hugh's... never bought anything from them but they have a bare set with stainless steel valves no springs for like 720 then have the machine shop test and build

either way I go its way more $$$ than I had planned. but I don't want a stock 360 when I install it.

at least you are going to spend your money right the first time.

the heads i saw on e-bay were about $385 per head but i think hughes is selling a set with the same specs for $975.00.
ebay heads
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160887572247?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_armrs%3D1%26_nkw%3D160887572247%26_rdc%3D1
hughes heads that look similar
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=category&level0=U21hbGwgQmxvY2sgRG9kZ2UgTWFnbnVtICgzLjkvNS4yLzUuOSk=&level1=Q3lsaW5kZXIgSGVhZHM=&searchmode=partnumber&page=2&partid=27820

yeah Hugh's has no springs but stainless steel valves, and I would have to use custom springs anyways.