OK... gonna double cardon the rear drive shaft, where it comes OUT of the NP241 t-case, and I need some confirmation on the CV flange, needed to mount it to the NP241.
This be, our NP241!
(http://www.smartpartsauto.com/images/dodge_np241_2.jpg) Note the 10 possible bolt holes, where one can mate a CV flange to the business end of the t-case.
THIS be, how I want to mate it TO the t-case - http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1047_ford_1350_series_double_cardan_cv_flange_yoke.html - which LOOKS like this;
(http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/img/products/1259524370_Ford1350SeriesDoubleCardanCVFlangeYoke_Ford1350CVFlan.jpg) With 4 bolts holes, it would seem there are plenty of choices on the t-case flange to ALLOW the two mate up, and then it's simply a matter of mating the cardon to the flange, and the other half to the driveshaft...
Or is it TOUGHER than I have imagined? :dontknow: THAT, gentlemen... is the question...
Ok... I'm looking at the FRONT driveshaft flange plate... D'OH! :tard:
HOW do I mate a flange plate LIKE this, to the REAR driveshaft output?
Ok... what I THINK I need now is (somebody stop me before I start PAYING for this stuff!!!), is THIS!
http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/drive_shaft_SYE.htm
Specifically;
Quote
This is a fully splined 1 7/8 inch seal surface diameter slip yoke only. You can bolt this one on after drilling and tapping a hole at the end of the output shaft.
Any slip yoke transfer case can have an SYE made for it. This includes Dodges, Fords, Chevys,.. As long as it is a slip yoke, it can be eliminated.
Size of CV needed on the SYE Yoke
(http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/images/slipp2.jpg) FOR 208 SYE COMPLETE KIT CLICK HERE (http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/SYE_Kits_$375.htm)This flange is 32 spline and is installed just like the yoke. This is a universal flange that has Ford(3" square hole pattern-treaded), Chevy (3" square hole pattern-no tread), Toyota( 2 3/8 square by 2 11/16 CV hole pattern, and the large hole pattern for Suzuki.
| Large universal flange style 2.0 pilot SYE -- $185.00 |
| Large universalflange style 2.688 pilot SYE -- $185.00 |
[/q]
Or am I losing my mind... :confused2:
Wish I could help ya but that was a nice pic of the 4x4 babe. I don'tknow what had to do with driveshafts but yahoo that top was see through. :laughing7:
Quote from: SixGun on April 16, 2014, 03:22:21 PM
Wish I could help ya but that was a nice pic of the 4x4 babe. I don'tknow what had to do with driveshafts but yahoo that top was see through. :laughing7:
HEY! I'm building The War Wagon here - not the U.S.S. Voyager!!!
ACTUALLY... I may have found THE solution... but I have a meeting shortly - I'll post more details later tonight.
It ain't cheap, but it SHOULD do the job! http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np241c_j_std_sye.php (http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np241c_j_std_sye.php)
This one specifically. Part #16-1204-1966 -- $425.00 (w/1350 Rear Output Flange) (http://www.pgh-offroad.com/forum/images/smilies/045.gif)
This may not help but here's what I did, bearing in mind that my axles are from a cherokee and my truck isn't really full size.
I installed a NP242 in my truck. It has 1310 driveshafts out of a Cherokee. I found a slip-joint eliminator for the 242 (Jeeps and some Dakotas) (driver side drop) from a Jeep specialty company. It provided a fixed yoke, not a flange. The yoke was a u-bolt yoke not a strap yoke. Cost was $100 or so.
If I hadn't gone from a 904 tranny to a 727 that was somewhat longer, I could have used a factory front driveshaft, making both driveshafts the same.
Someone probably makes the same type conversion, if you can find one.
Procedure was to remove the rear housing and seal, install a new and shorter housing and seal. Cut the output shaft off with a grinder and cut off wheel. drill and tap the center of the output shaft. Center of the shaft is soft steel, outside is carbon-steel and hard. Then you slip on the new yoke and attach the bolt. All of this was done with the transfer in the truck and it took about half a day.
And, today I rebuilt the double cardan. The centering yoke had bit the dust. Instead of rebuilding it, I bought a spicer centering joint from Amazon for about $50 that has a grease sert. Factory does not. I also replaced the two u-joints with greaseable joints from NAPA for about $50 (with a company discount). Also note this was a yoke connection, not a flange connection so it is probably cheaper. All of these serts require a needle type grease fitting on the grease gun.
I used a ball joint press in a vice and total time was just about 2 hours. One factor is that again it is a 1310 driveshaft and it is slightly smaller.
It was from an 89 Jeep that has seen a fair amount of off road and mud.
A new transfer case might not be a bad route to go... after winning the Powerball. :tongue3: Honest-to-goodness, if THAT happened, I'd probably go with an NP-205 and an Atlas doubler. I'd also go with a T-18 4-spd, too! :dance:
That said, my driveshaft man is on vacation 'til Monday. I saw Dave earlier this week - I sent him pictures of the flange, and we're gonna swap out the yoke and driveshaft right here in the parking lot late next week (I live between his home and his shop, so THAT makes things easy!). The double cardon simply buys us some time, until we can plasma cut those rear shock towers off, rotate the diff, and shim it in place like it NEEDS to be. Hopefully, it'll let me get a little wheeling in this summer, before it goes BACK to the shop this winter!
What am I missing? That looks like a 94 and later 241.
Here is the set up I have on my 91 241 cost me a total of 160.00 bucks
FUNNY you should respond to this thread!
I took the flange over to Dave's shop last week, as we're trying to get a time to install it. He wanted to see EXACTLY what I had, ANNNNNND... turns out it's the WRONG thing. (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-basic/slaphead.gif) The one they sent, was for a LONG-shaft GM 241 application. And we of the Ramcharger persuasion, use the short output shaft. (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-ashamed001.gif)
So Dave personally called 'em out in AZ, explained the situation, and they agreed to swap out parts. In fact, I have YET to get the old one back in the mail, and the new one arrived yesterday (2 day shipping), so we THINK we have the right piece NOW, to proceed with the driveshaft upgrade. Installation could be completed by late this week, so I'll update this further, as soon as we have something.
New piece for the t-case, to attach the double-cardon driveshaft. ta da. ;D
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/The_War_Wagon/Ramcharger/0601141146b_zps8296d487.jpg)
That is the one.
Quote from: mopar_daddy on June 01, 2014, 04:18:01 PM
That is the one.
Just glad we got it figgered out between here & Phoenix!
And my KINGDOM, for all my old 4 Wheeling mags from the late '80's, with tons of articles on RAMCHARGERS!!!!