There are so many u-joints available and how do you decipher all that madness.
From what I've been able to gather 1310 seems to be best choice. 1350 are HD but are over kill unless running D60 axles, 40" tires a nd a HP motor. Then there is the issue of breaking a $20 u-joint vs an expensive axle or yoke. Even with 1310 there are 3 choices. Solid, grease fitting in body or grease fitting on cap. Seems that solids are stronger for obvious reasons with the solid body. I read that grease fittings on the cap are better than on the body but I would think that it would still have a hollow body to allow grease to flow to the other caps. Then there are the 7260/7290 for stock Mopar drive lines. The 7260 being the smaller of the two.
Anyone have insight to this or words of advice or caution.
I did find this article on u-joints as I kept on searching. It answered some questions.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm
I should dig up the receipt on my driveshafts, which I had cleaned (de-rustified! ;D ), re-balanced, and new U-joints installed, this time last year. There's a guy here in the South Hills who does ONLY DRIVESHAFTS (http://www.bing.com/local?lid=YN731x12710318&q=Pittsburgh+Drive-Shaft+Company+Pittsburgh+PA) - and he makes a GOOD living at it, BECAUSE it's his specialty. I think we went HD at every joint, and solid on at LEAST one of them - but again, I'll hafta check the receipt, which MIGHT be in the glovebox of the truck... at Gibbs. ???
Further reading and it seems that frequent greasing immediately after Wheelin' to expunge any contaminants, ie water or dirt, is preferred.
makes sense
When it comes to suspension and driveline parts I buy nothing but Spicer. If I can I will buy joints with
the zerk in the cap. And running a grease gun over the the rig after a wheeling mud bath is always a good idea.
With the good types of grease and regular maintence most over the road trucks see 600,000 plus on u-joints.
I have been running the 7260 joints for years... the grease zerk in the cap is convenient...but the zerk will break off very easily when it hits a rock and then all the grease goes buhbye :017:
If you want a joint that can be greased easily and be reliable you are SOL with the small 7260 as most grease guns cannot clear the yoke to grease the inside style zerk...
with that being said I have not been able to break the cross portion of the 7260...the failures I have experienced include bearing/cap failure from running too much angle (with 4" Lift) and staps/strap bolts not holding... Make sure you use new straps and strap bolts EVERY TIME you take it apart!
If planning to change to a ujoint other than stock, and you are planning any more than 4" Lift a 1350 joint would be the minimum I would suggest....if spending that kind of coin just step up to 1410's and never have a problem again :headbang:
So the 7260's can be had with grease zerk in body or cap. Cap is exposed or cross zerk is inaccessible. Would the new maintenance free solid body uj's be a good option?
Since straps are an issue, can they be converted to ubolts? Can the yoke be drilled out to do this?
Uggh... don't forget to re-angle your drive line (rotate the axle). ASK me how I know... :(
Quote from: SixGun on April 10, 2014, 11:04:00 AM
So the 7260's can be had with grease zerk in body or cap. Cap is exposed or cross zerk is inaccessible. Would the new maintenance free solid body uj's be a good option?
Since straps are an issue, can they be converted to ubolts? Can the yoke be drilled out to do this?
.
the maintenance free might be good choice....no amount of grease will make them last anyway! I think the yokes can be drilled for straps but I have never done it. Get new straps and bolts (cheap)... Run it like you stole it and keep spare parts on board.
Went by Pittsburgh Driveshaft this morning, after my current driveshaft debacle. I'm gonna have Hank build me a double cardon, where it mates to the transfer case. I think my 4.56's are too torquey for the factory yoke! :confused2:
Quote from: The War Wagon on April 14, 2014, 03:44:55 PM
Went by Pittsburgh Driveshaft this morning, after my current driveshaft debacle. I'm gonna have Hank build me a double cardon, where it mates to the transfer case. I think my 4.56's are too torquey for the factory yoke! :confused2:
Its not so much about torque or weak yokes......it is all about the angle of the dangle... your situation is a direct result of a crappy small ujoint that was more than likely reinstalled without replacing the necessary hardware, and it was running way outside of its designed operating angle...... most importantly however a big lift (4"+) is all it takes to find the weak links :violent1:
If you are dropping coin on driveshafts do yourself a favor and upgrade to at least a 1350 size double cardon and matching 1350 at the axle....dont forget that when using a double cardan at the t-case the rear axle pinion needs to be rotatated up....so shims are still recommended for the rear axle to correct pinion angle. :steeringwheel:
Quote from: ProjectPW on April 15, 2014, 08:26:20 AM
Its not so much about torque or weak yokes......it is all about the angle of the dangle... your situation is a direct result of a crappy small ujoint that was more than likely reinstalled without replacing the necessary hardware, and it was running way outside of its designed operating angle...... most importantly however a big lift (4"+) is all it takes to find the weak links :violent1:
Mine's strictly a bad driveline angle, as ALL the driveshafts were refurbished, re-balanced, and all new hardware and U-joints installed. The yoke coming out of the transfer case for the rear driveshaft is a known weak point on our trucks though, so replacing it with a Ford style flange, so as to couple the double cardon correctly, would be a recommended upgrade, even IF the driveline angle were correct.
QuoteIf you are dropping coin on driveshafts do yourself a favor and upgrade to at least a 1350 size double cardon and matching 1350 at the axle....dont forget that when using a double cardan at the t-case the rear axle pinion needs to be rotatated up....so shims are still recommended for the rear axle to correct pinion angle. :steeringwheel:
Git 'r' done! 8) I spoke with Hank this morning about the double cardon, and he's rarirn' to go, as soon as what's
THERE is bolted back together (Dave should be coming by this afternoon, although he
should've come yesterday when it was sunny & 72
o. It's blowing snow
today). ::)
And we
KNOW the rear axle
needs to be rotated. That also means plasma-cutting LOOSE the shock towers, and mounting them all anew. Part of THAT plan, is to eliminate the dual shock setup, and go with Bilstein 5106's. That's a LOT of work to do yet - Dave wants me to get out and drive it as-is for now, and the double cardon
should buy us some time, until this fall when Dave gets it BACK, and can do all that - and MORE - then.