Willyreplica from the start...

[workgoats]

I am currently doing some wiring remodeling. I'm simplifying the fuse panel. I have rebuilt an older Ramcharger fuse box with wires and fuses to match what I actually have on the truck. I also have to move the ignition module and voltage regulator to make room for the heater. While I'm at it, I plan to remove, remodel and re-install the wiper system to get better coverage on the windshield.

Add a leaf system for the rear is ordered. We will see if this makes it more trail worthy. It should lift the back end by about 2.5 inches.

Also in planning mode for closing in the back of the cab and designing a pickup bed to go on the back, as well as raising the rear bumper for a better departure angle.

[workgoats]

Well, I installed the heater I built.  It almost fits.  I will have to move the battery forward about 2" to clear the blower motor.  That's not too much of a problem.  I had to remove the voltage regulator, ignition module, ballast resistor and a junction block to install the heater but they were all ok to put back after installation.

There is a space conflict with the transfer shifter, but since it didn't work very well anyway, I guess I will rebuild it AGAIN.  That means I will have to remove the 150# skid plate I put in before going to Hidden Falls. 

At least it kept me from putting any scratches or cracks in the transfer.

Oh yeah, the fuse block was in the way of the heater so I rebuilt a RC fuse block and rewired it to handle only what I expect to have on the Willyreplica.  It is a much better application and I now know what all the little fuses are really for.

[SixGun]

Come on Ron, give us some pics.   

[workgoats]

Come on Ron, give us some pics.   

I can't find my camera.  I guess I can take some with the phone tomorrow.

[workgoats]

Still can't find my camera.  Don't be surprised if these come up upside down or something. 

First pic is the bumper.  Since a couple of guys claimed it was too low, I have raised it 5".  I did some work on it after the pic but it is still not finished yet.

Second picture is the new fuse block.  It is from some undetermined year model of Dodge P/U or RC.  I have rewired it to include what is on the vehicle now and what I intend to add, with one spare for something new...

Third and fourth pics are of the heater.  They are hard to see.  One is from the passenger door.  There is a conflict with the transfer shifter just out of the pic to the left.  I need to re-do the shifter anyway so this will be resolved.  By the way, you can see a zip tie holding the cable to the gas pedal.  That was not part of my build.  Seems Ryan and Richard did this while I was in camp.

The other pic is of the firewall.  All the ignition and voltage stuff has been reinstalled.  The blower motor can be seen and the hose bibs stick out through all the wiring to the right.  I haven't hooked them up yet because I don't have a valve to regulate the water flow yet.  When I get everything working as it needs to be I plan to re-do the wiring on the firewall to clean it up.

The thing may be worn out by the time I get it done.

[SixGun]

Trying to remember, was the bumper below the frame previously?  Looks like you've gotten quite a bit done.   

[workgoats]

Trying to remember, was the bumper below the frame previously?  Looks like you've gotten quite a bit done.   

Top of bumper was same elevation as bottom now. I also moved it 2 inches forward. I have fabricated two 2"x2" vertical bump stops from top of bumper to bottom of the bumper frame that you can see below the bumper.

[workgoats]

Those of us that were at Hidden Falls last are aware that it needed some help in the rear.  I have raised the bumper 5" and will try to finish welding and reset it today.  I bought a pair of add a leaf springs from a Jeep on line company, Iron Rock Offroad.

The lift was to be 2.5 to 3 inches, depending on spring condition and weight.  Since I don't have any weight at the back (yet) it lifted the back by 3 3/4".  I think that is more than I need but by the time I get the back of the tub completed, add a bed, spare, tools and extraction stuff, spare and whatever, I hope it will lower itself an inch or so.

Cost of the kit was under $80, including shipping.  The U-bolts were like new so I reused them.  You Texas guys should remember that and not follow me too closely...




Here was the measurement to the top of the receiver hitch before adding the springs.  I didn't bother to take one showing the additional 3 3/4".

The spring kit included 2 full length springs, center bolt and nut (extra long to make it easy to install) and clamps to hold the springs in place.  All went very well.



In the meantime...



No I didn't get to use the boat.  I just moved it around while we used its home for the painters to finish cabinets for our new buildings.

[SixGun]

So lifting the bumper 5" and 3" lift springs for an 8" raise on the ass end round abouts?  Sounds like the rock scraping days are over.   

[workgoats]

So lifting the bumper 5" and 3" lift springs for an 8" raise on the ass end round abouts?  Sounds like the rock scraping days are over.   

Yep. It looks like I will have to get a 12 inch drop hitch to pull a trailer.

[SixGun]

You ever notice that fixing one problem always seems to create another one.   

[workgoats]

Okay, I got a new camera...

These first two pics are of the modified rear bumper, raised 5 inches.  Bump stops were added to help reinforce it and the receiver for the hitch is attached to an angle crossing from side to side under the gas tank.

Departure angle is greatly improved.





I installed an add-a-leaf kit from Iron Rock Off Road.  They are a Jeep supplier.

The lift was more than I actually  wanted but it should come back down a little as I finish the back of the vehicle.



The added height caused problems with the u-joint at the transfer case.  It did not handle the added angle.  I ground on the yoke for a while until it didn't hit the caps anymore but ordered a slip yoke eliminator from Iron Rock.

Here are pics of both ends of the rear driveshaft and the parts I received for the slip yoke removal.







Driveshaft removed:


Rear housing removed:



Just a little over an inch of the shaft was removed.  The center of the shaft is not hardened.  I drilled it out, tapped it and installed the new yoke with a 3/8 in bolt to hold it on.  The adapter is milled aluminum and holds the new oil seal.



Next steps will be turning the differential toward the transfer to eliminate vibration due to the addition of a double cardan joint at the transfer.  I get this from a front driveshaft that Richard is holding (whenever we can get together).

In a standard XJ, the rear driveshaft would be replaced with a stock front driveshaft, making both front and rear identical.  This won't happen to me since I went from the 904 tranny to the 727 and had to shorten the driveshaft.

I will have pics soon of the re-alignment of the rear axle but it will require new u-bolts and I will be beefing up the spring top plates too.  The wedges/shims required to turn the axle also require some modifications to the bolt holding the springs together. 

[SixGun]

I really like the way you braced that rear bumper.  Looks tough!   

[workgoats]

The rear axle is now bolted back to the springs.  I had to extend the bottom of the bolt through the springs by adding a spacer.  The wedge to correct the angle of the pinon shaft had a hole all the way through it. 

I was fed up with the spring plate and we fabricated new ones, using 1/2" plate.  I like it.



And here is a look at the back of the wedge.

[workgoats]

As I got older, I found it harder to turn around in the seat and back safely.  I also hate getting out of the truck 5 or 6 times to get a trailer hooked up to the hitch.  So, I'm back on a rear view/backup camera system for this vehicle.

In the past I have used both hard wired and wireless cameras.  In the red truck I have a 7" monitor with one wireless input and one AV input.  I put a security camera in the bumper.



This was a good application except for the fact that it does not have sufficient field of vision to see the top of the trailer ball.  You can back up close to the trailer but you cannot tell when you are in the right location.

To cure this I took a wireless camera that I bought some time back (with the monitor) and installed it up under the spare.  It looks down directly on the hitch and makes hookup a breeze.



Then at Shiloh Ridge I came fairly close to running over a guy on a 4-wheeler sitting at the top of a hill.  I guess he didn't think there was a way in the world for such an ugly truck to make it to the top of the hill.  I couldn't see him until I broke over the top of the hill.  To solve that problem I installed another wireless camera in the grille.  It was pointed downward enough to see right in front of the bumper.



I put the two wireless cameras on an A/B switch.  The security camera in the bumper is a 9 volt camera and I used a solid state voltage regulator but the power supply that came with the camera put out over 14 volts so I think the camera would work fine on battery voltage.

As of today, neither of the wireless cameras work.

I have purchased a new security camera for the Willyreplica.  It is identical to the one in the bumper shown above.  It came from Harbor Freight and they are often on sale for $30 or so.  Here is the complete package.



With a little help from a salesperson at Best Buy, I found a 7" monitor designed for a backup camera on-line.  This monitor has two AV inputs and is powered by a switch or by a lead to the backup light so that it will come on when the vehicle is put in reverse.



This monitor came with an adapter that would let you install it directly in the dash.  It also has a stand.  Since I don't have a space big enough in my little dash, I will use the stand.

I plan to mount the camera above the rear bumper and place it on a hinged mount so that I can tilt it downward enough to see the trailer ball or high enough to look backwards both on the trail and on the highway.  The jury is still out on what I will use for the linear actuator to move it up and down.