Willyreplica from the start...

[workgoats]

Working on the rear view camera...

The first thing I have done is remove the base from the camera.



Then I modified a gate hinge and built a cradle for the camera.  I used part of the same plastic cutting board that I used to make the front spring spacers.



I clamped it to the top of the bumper.  (This is NOT a permanent mounting.)



And this is the night vision view out the door of my garage, Christmas lights and all.  There was some light out there, but the camera was in night vision mode.



Then, this would most likely be the amount of tilt that I would want.



This is the night vision view of the trailer ball from the tilted camera.  There was very little ambient light there so this would be the view backing to a trailer with no backup lights.  We are looking at the concrete drive, garage floor and a concrete block sitting just out on the edge of the drive.



There may be some sun today and if I can I will move it outside and look at the views again without the night vision.

Next problem is the linear actuator that would be needed to move and control the tilt of the camera.  I'm working on that.

[rjtx667]

that is a sweet setup there!!! 

[workgoats]

I think I have found the answer for the linear actuator.  I've found a unit that is 9 1/4" inches long and less than 1 1/4" in diameter.  It has 2 inches of movement with limit switches at both ends.  I think I will mount it horizontal behind the bumper and translate the action to vertical with a small bell crank.  That will let me alter the length to match what is needed since the limit switches are not adjustable.

It's a little pricey but it should cut out about 3 or 4 of the methods that just don't quite work.

[workgoats]

I have been working on the rear view/backup camera on the project.  I have built a device to tilt the camera so that I can see the camera ball when hitching up a trailer.  On the previous truck I mounted a second camera behind the spare tire.  I found that it was okay in the daylight but at night there was insufficient light to see the trailer ball.

I have rigged this one up to tilt toward the ball.  This camera is a night vision security camera, bought on sale from Harbor Freight for less than $40.  The monitor was bought on-line from a Best Buy site for about $40.00.  The linear actuator was purchased on line and it cost about $105.  Who knows what the switch in the dash will require.  It will have to be a double pole, double throw rocker arm switch to match the others.

Here is the mechanism to tilt the camera.  I had to modify the backing plate some to get it behind my bumper and since it was so hard to get it installed I will not be pulling it out to paint it.  (At least not in the near future.)



Here is a short video of the camera tilting and the view on the monitor when you tilt the camera.  The truck is in the garage and it is at night.  It was cold enough it should have been showing...  The garage door was not open long.

vimeo.com/57419018

[rjtx667]

Thats a pretty sweet setup right there!!!

[workgoats]

I bought some metal today to begin closing in the back of the cab and for building a frame for a top.  There is a problem though because I also brought my new 82 RC from Nick's house home today too.   I borrowed a driver side window glass from AJ today and will need to replace it sooner or later.

The Magnum is running but there's a long way to go to get the program worked out.  I will be starting on it soon.  If I can learn how to handle this, I'll put the 360 TBI stuff on the 318 in the Willyreplica and install the other MegaSquirt computer that I have.

I'm still wiring the Willyreplica to run the new 12K winch in the receiver hitch at the front and the back. 

[workgoats]

Okay, I have a battery running the Willyreplica and a battery in the back to run the winch.  I plan to keep the batteries separate but I need to keep the winch battery charged.

I have a battery isolater somewhere but, if I install a wire from the positive wiring on the truck, through a relay that is closed when the ignition is in the run position, properly fused, would that serve as a isolater for charging when the truck is running and prevent the winch battery from running down the truck battery?  Would it need a diode to prevent problems?

I also am wondering if I put a permanent set of jumper cables between the batteries, switched with a couple of ferd type starter solenoids powered by a dash switch, could  I safely tie the two batteries together to assist in winching or as a jumper battery if the truck battery was run down?

[SixGun]

So are you talking about enclosing the cab only or the bed too.  I really think that the bed will give it a whole new look.  Then a machinegun mount in the bed with a 50 cal.  Hooah....

[workgoats]

I plan to close the cab and then have basically a short flat bed. But, there will be bed sides made from the "Brazilian Walnut" scraps from our new office. It is Ipe wood. It is just about the hardest wood in the world.

I would have the only Willyreplica in the world with this wood on it.

It could turn into a metal bed though. Just depends on time, amount of materials, appearance and whatever.

[rjtx667]

I have a spare driver (and passenger, and rear quarter side, and hatch) window if you need one. 

[workgoats]

I have a spare driver (and passenger, and rear quarter side, and hatch) window if you need one. 

I borrowed a driver side window glass from AJ. He's  a local guy that you haven't met yet. It came from a pop top RC but the glass will be the same. We might have to swap the metal runner on the bottom but that is doable. It should be the same unless your glass came from a truck with electric windows.

So, yes I need a driver side glass.

[rjtx667]

It did have electric windows, but then again I got the spare electric motors too if you want to get all fancy 

They are sitting in my warehouse office along with all my other spare parts.

This LASIK messed with me a bit more than I thought, I am freaking out about messing up the flap and all that, but I should be back on game here in a week or so and hopefully get some more stuff worked on.

I sold the 91 buick, so I am back down the 4 vehicles... figure thats a good start.

Just let me know if you want the window(s) and/or the electric motors as well. I think I still have the whole dash wire harness (and dash even)

[workgoats]

I actually have been working on the Willyreplica some.  Chickenlittle gave me an air tank from some truck.  I modified it a little, using switches and regulator from a home air compressor but using the tank's check valve.  This is the first fit in the truck, between the soon to be finished cab and the gas tank on top of the frame.



I have lowered the mounting brackets and relocated the regulator so it will have a lower profile.  I put a little paint on it but the spray nozzle died about half through and it won't be seen anyway...



I have also started building the roof structure, following the slope of the roll bar.  The fitment at the corner was a real pain and the welding leaves some to be desired but it isn't structural.  (In the end it won't be seen anyway.)

I don't really understand it though, usually the welds that can't be seen are great and the ones in front of my everyday vision are terrible. 

[workgoats]

The c-clamps and the tubing across the top are for alignment.  They are not permanent.

[SixGun]

   Could always hang a flag off the C-clamp.