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RC Running Like Crap!

Started by 9dawgs, June 27, 2013, 02:11:44 PM

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9dawgs

Well I had time this morning to take a closer look at the engine and I found the problem to the most recent issue. Looks like the cap came off of this solenoid (anyone know the name/function?). I thought I had checked all this on the side of the road when I broke down but somehow I missed it.

I put it back on, used some of my old aircraft mechanic skills and safety wired the plastic clip to the solenoid poll. I took it for a spin and it runs good.  Still a little stuttering with the power thing but nothing compared to yesterday.  I'm going to pull the tank next to see if I have any sediment in there.  Depending on what I find I'll replace the fuel filter again.

It was an easy fix and the kind that makes you feel stupid when you find it!  :hmh: But I'm glad I can drive it now.

I'm still going to look into the lean burn removal.  It seems pretty straight forward.  It's just not as urgent a thing right now.  I'm rebuilding a fresh 318 in my garage right now and when I install it I will not be hooking up the lean burn junk. I have a set of Flowtech Headers, 4bbl Holley 570CFM, Holley Street Dominator Aluminum Intake so far for the new build.

Thanks for your help.  I really appreciate all the comments.
'86 Dodge Ramcharger, 4X4, 318, 727, NPG208, General Grabber AT2 285/75R16s, Rough Country Nitro RCX 9000 Shocks
'04 Volvo XC70, AWD, 2.5L T5 Turbo
'99 Astro 4x2, 4.3L, 4"OLV lift, RS5000 Shocks, BFGoodrich 31x10.50 DECEASED...

SixGun

I see that you got it running.  That's great.  You mentioned about some hesitation since you bought it. I found an article about o2 sensors and saw this line, "Other symptoms of a faulty sensor are a loss of power, (particularly when accelerating from a stand-still)... "

Here's the article:  http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/JF-Tech/about_oxygen_sensor.htm

Maybe this can help.  If you decide to change yours, this may help. Some guys have problems removing the 02 but I have used a pipe wrench with teeth and a cheater bar to loosen mine easily when an open end wouldn't budge it.
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

9dawgs

'86 Dodge Ramcharger, 4X4, 318, 727, NPG208, General Grabber AT2 285/75R16s, Rough Country Nitro RCX 9000 Shocks
'04 Volvo XC70, AWD, 2.5L T5 Turbo
'99 Astro 4x2, 4.3L, 4"OLV lift, RS5000 Shocks, BFGoodrich 31x10.50 DECEASED...

crazzywolfie

would that thing even have a o2 sensor since it is carbed?

9dawgs

Hmmm, do know.  I haven't looked.  They're normally somewhere in the exhaust right?
'86 Dodge Ramcharger, 4X4, 318, 727, NPG208, General Grabber AT2 285/75R16s, Rough Country Nitro RCX 9000 Shocks
'04 Volvo XC70, AWD, 2.5L T5 Turbo
'99 Astro 4x2, 4.3L, 4"OLV lift, RS5000 Shocks, BFGoodrich 31x10.50 DECEASED...

crazzywolfie

ya. it is usually on the y pipe somewhere but i figure since the truck is carbed it shouldn't have one but i know some of the wiring diagrams do show that the lean burn systems have a o2 sensor.

rjtx667

yeah carb'd should not have O2 sensors, those are just to help the computer know how much fuel to put into the injectors.

Both of mine just went bad on the 2000, and the milage and performance went down fast!!
1935 Dodge KC Truck
1991 &1993 RamCharger
2000 RamCharger
2005 Cummins

scratchinfotraction

myself, i would pop for a reman points dist from autozone and drop it in there,hook up 1 wire to the coil and test drive to see if that cured the problem.

I want to wager you still have charcoal in the emulsion tubes and airbleeds.

if the dist did not work, a fast swap to another BBD 2-v would confim carb trouble or not.

if you found coal sucked up thru the line to carb why would you hook that can back up?  even with a filter to catch some? :dontknow:

if you did not remove any core plugs from passages in the main body and run a pipe cleaner or wire thru them, the coal will stay, carb clean and a soak will not eat it away or melt it to come out...it can only be removed manualy..from my experiance anyways.

i will wager carb problem at this point, all the spark in the world will not make it run with out gas getting into cyls.

9dawgs

Quote from: scratchinfotraction on November 05, 2013, 09:51:19 AM
I want to wager you still have charcoal in the emulsion tubes and airbleeds.

if you found coal sucked up thru the line to carb why would you hook that can back up?  even with a filter to catch some? :dontknow:

if you did not remove any core plugs from passages in the main body and run a pipe cleaner or wire thru them, the coal will stay, carb clean and a soak will not eat it away or melt it to come out...it can only be removed manualy..from my experiance anyways.

i will wager carb problem at this point, all the spark in the world will not make it run with out gas getting into cyls.

I manually cleaned a LOT of that crap out of there. I'm pretty confident I got it all out.  As for the reason I left it hooked up it's because I thought it needed to be hooked up for the carb & tank to vent properly.  I've read on the other RC forum that those that had disconnected it had flooding issues to the bowl on the carb.  Their remedy was to reinstall it with a filter inline to catch all the charcoal that would be sucked up the vacuum hose.  Mine is definitely catching the charcoal.  I don't see any way for it to travel any farther than the filter.

It may still be a carb issue but I'm leaning towards an electric issue. Currently I'm not driving it enough to warrant tearing in to it right now.  I will when I have the time/money though.  Thanks for your input. Every little bit helps! :thumbsup:
'86 Dodge Ramcharger, 4X4, 318, 727, NPG208, General Grabber AT2 285/75R16s, Rough Country Nitro RCX 9000 Shocks
'04 Volvo XC70, AWD, 2.5L T5 Turbo
'99 Astro 4x2, 4.3L, 4"OLV lift, RS5000 Shocks, BFGoodrich 31x10.50 DECEASED...

scratchinfotraction

well that sound better that you did take time to manually clean the carb. I guess the filter will work,just thought it odd to hook up a bad canister..it is not doing the venting any good if it is rupturd inside.

of course I am just the slash,burn,chop,hack,strip, kinda guy with stuff i dont understand. and never tried to learn how it works or to fix it.

I have fixed way to many by droping a points dist in and swap on a manual choke 4-v carb/intake and run them till they die..but never work on ign problems again after converting them.

I have never got a thermobg carb that worked and the only good BBD 2-v I had was on a 68 318 with no emissions.

that plastic piece is for the idle stop or idle compesator for when a/c is on...looks like the idle stop.