News:

Your new home for car and truck enthusiast to share, learn, and brag.

Main Menu

1976 Big Block RC build

Started by SixGun, July 27, 2012, 10:49:29 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

SixGun

Thanks Eric, hope your making some progress on yours as well.   :hello:
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

80W150

Ok, trying to catch up on these projects. Reading through I noticed the title monster reared it's ugly head. So now I have a question for you Texas fellers.

So I bought my 79 from a gal down in Seven Points. She sent me the title. Clear Texas title. Then I looked at the VIN on the title. Didn't match factory VIN. I got on Texas DMV site, punched in the title VIN, yup, came up 79 dodge. (neat little thing there btw, checking VIN like that. Pretty handy) I punched the factory VIN in, nada. Michigan wouldn't even touch the title with the weird VIN. So, had to contact seller, she had to get stuff from Cali (where they originally bought truck and brought to Texas with them) then take said stuff to Texas DMV to get title with trucks factory VIN. What a PITA. Took months.

So what she sent me, could that have been a bonded title? The VIN looked like one that Michigan assigns when you build something. (assembled vehicle, bike, dune buggy, kit car) If it was a bonded title why would they have titled the truck that way in Texas?
Chuck

SixGun

Now I couldn't say but I might need to get a bonded title myself when the time comes.  Ryan, rjtx 667, had to get one for his Mexico RC and may be able to help though.  Anyone else done a bonded title out there?
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

crazzywolfie

before i bought my trucks i made sure the vin on the dash and in the door matched what was on the ownership.

80W150

Not sure what a bonded title is but I have had to do a assembled vehicle title. That was nothing but a good time.

Went to secretary of state (dmv) and got the paperwork.

Set up a time to have a police officer come over and inspect the vehicle. (dune buggy. was going for street legal)

Got the paperwork signed of on, took it back to sec of state. Was told I would be notified by sec of state main office when to take the vehicle in to them for final inspection.

2 months later finally get a call to take the buggy into the secondary complex for inspection. Showed up, dude looked at engine serial number, questioned about windshield wipers (where were they), told him if I'm in the rain with this I'm hurtin' for certain so chances were slim to none that would happen. He saw the logic in that and signed off. He attached a VIN tag to it and done deal. Couple weeks later a title showed up. It was titled as a "assembled roadster".

Good times for sure. ::)
Chuck

SixGun

Some parts waiting for warmer weather.  Dayton rear shackles, all new bolts, poly eye bushings and frame bushings for the front.
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

 :sunny:  Weather was nice today so I took my new air hammer to the inlaws to remove the front frame bushings.  Compared to using a regular hammer and a chisel, it was a breeze.  Took a little time but those stubborn boogers finally gave up the ghost.  I was able to get a pic of the bent front shackle also.  You can see that it's cock-eyed.  Tried to disconnect the front axle brake line but started to strip the nut and I gave up.  It was starting to get dark on me anyways.  Here's a few pics.
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

Always looking at alternatives and wondered if anyone has used or knows of anyone that has used this CSE rear leaf shackle mount for a shackle flip?  It bolts directly into the frame bolt holes.  Not a bad price and can be had with bolts for a couple extra bucks.  I emailed him and they still offer them.   http://www.gatsbycars.com/dodge.html

Speaking of rear leaf, the poly bushings that were shipped to me were not for 5/8" bolts.  I contacted them and they told me no dice and I returned them.  It turned out that they carry the Energy Suspension line.  I have been searching around and haven't found anything in this size.  I did notice that they fit the 5/8" bolt without the sleeve.  Would this create a problem?  On my searches, there was some guys that did this.  Any feelings on this? 
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

80W150

Does that husky hammer work good? All I have is a short barrel Campbell hausfield. Certain things it works ok, others...... I'd buy one from the matco dealer but any tool truck you buy from it's going to be pricey. I can't justify the cost when I don't use air hammers but once every now and then.

As to your suspension questions, can't help ya. I've never lifted anything or had to replace springs. (yet. that may change with the 79. Thinking a 4" might be cool.)
Chuck

SixGun

The Husky worked fine for me.  It's a medium barrel and carried by Home Depot.  I paid $20 for it with no tips.  I picked up the chisel tips from Harbor Freight for like $5.  I like the grip on it.  It's a composite and the handle is not  skinny or too short like the HF brands or some of the cheaper and short barrel models I've looked at.  Lowes has a nice one too but about $10 more with the tips.  For what I used it for it was fine. I made short work of it and was a lot of fun. Time will tell.

Got back after the frame bushings again.  Installed them today argg...PITA.  I sanded down the bushing sleeve in the frame and greased it up. Took a small sledge and got it about 80% in.  Then I took a bolt and some big washers and tightened them down the rest of the way till seated.  Didn't take the compressor with me and so I did it by hand.  Good thing I did take the cheater bar though.     :violent1:

I also separated the brake line from the front axle.  Vise grip and a pipe wrench did the trick.  I'm still debating the axle swap or knuckles out swap.  Like the idea of a whole lot newer axle but the CAD is ugly.  If I could just cover the hole with something instead of that big ass inoperable unit, I would be happy.  The 91 axle has good hoses but the 76 axle hoses are all dry rotted.  I also figure that if I swap the whole thing, I might be able to sell the 76 axles front and back, I might be able to get back a few bucks to put towards the truck.   Hmmm... what to do. Anyone need them .... hint hint.

"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

Okay some progress the last 2 weeks, front and rear axles are removed.  This was a lot easier than I thought.  Cutting the U-bolts with an angle grinder really saves some time.  D44 axle knuckles out swap and install steering block is next on the agenda.  I want to try out the sand blaster on these axles too and throw on some paint.

The 2nd pic is of the shock mount plate for the rear axle.  When viewed while installed, the shock mounting bolt appears to point down on both sides.  You can see from underneath that it appears bent.  Both sides look the same so is this correct or damaged?
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

80W150

Yeah, I think your ok on the shock mounts. Mine seemed bent too but it's the way they are apparently. Don't sweat it.

I agree that cutting the u bolts is easier than anything else. For the price of new ones it's worth the time to cut them. I did that on my 77 when I swapped the 87 axles under it.  Makes life a lot easier that's for sure.

I'm going to wait with my frame bushings until next winter. By then I'll know better what direction I'm going in. Right now I'm planning on pulling the engine soon and rebuilding it. Was going to just reseal but heck, might as well spend the money and have it gone through.... Two most expensive things on these projects (when you farm the work out) engine and body/paint.
Chuck

crazzywolfie

did you ever get a sand blasting mask or something that covers your entire face? also if you have not showed before sand blasting you may want to put it off until after you have sandblasted. sand gets everywhere and you will have to get a shower afterwords even it you wear tight clothing.

SixGun

That sounds pretty bad.  I'll be sure to get some gear before I start.  Thanks
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

crazzywolfie

if you had a 1 piece suit like you see those guys on tv wear to paint cars and a mask you might be ok and not need a shower. i don't know where you would find something like that. i find i usually use twice as much shampoo and body wash when i shower after sand blasting then i do when i normally shower. sand just get in everywhere and likes to stick.