1976 Big Block RC build

[Dodgestrike]

find stock replacements for the body mounts , polymounts are hard and not so gentle on the body.

[SixGun]

Thats what I needed to know.  Thanks

[workgoats]

I bought a gasket once. I made a gasket once. I couldn't find my gasket material this time and used silicone.

There was a thread somewhere on RCC about testing a sender. I don't have a computer with me tonight and I don't have the patience to search with this phone.

[SixGun]

The blocks under the rear springs are 3 1/2" tall.   Does that sound like a factory block? 

Also, I've got a short leaf inside the truck but I'm not sure if it's supposed to be on the front or back.  How do I find out how many leaf's are supposed to be on the front and back.

[rjtx667]

you need a FSM to help you out, it will have everything you need in it.

[SixGun]

With DodgeBoys help, I have bid on one from ebay.  Problem is that there is no FSM for 1976 and you have to go a year before or after.  The bidding ends today so I have my fingers crossed. 

I just want to make plans for the build.  I started gathering some parts and pulling a lot of crap off it already.  Some crazy wiring job.  Looks like 2 voltage regulators and 2 ecu's.  Disconnected the cruise control but now I need the longer speedo cable.  Lots of splices.  Also removed what was left of the AC.

As far as the block goes, I thought I had read that the factory ones were 2".  Sits level now but there's no motor/trans in it.  The front leafs look flat. 

[rjtx667]

The front normally look mostly flat with a load and a slight arch without a load. If they are flat without a load then I have no doubt you should consider new ones.

I will try to dig out my pics from when I changed the front springs on the green RC. Granted it went from 3 leafs to 5 but it was a huge difference.

Raised the truck about 2 " lift

[Dodgestrike]

it's probably the factory block in there , and I would wait until the engine is in to get to work on the springs or you could do alot of work and end up with a truck too tall or too low.

[SixGun]

Dodgestrike, found this link that seems to say the same as you. 

Just realized that I never posted the link. LOL

http://www.rockcharger.com/tech/axle.html

On a side note, I used   for some parts and was impressed.  I ordered them on Saturday afternoon and they arrived on Tuesday.  They use Fedex ground. The prices were real good also.  They have clearance items that are name brand for cheap.

I ordered a complete weatherstrip kit from [urlhttp://www.1aauto.com/1A/Weatherstrip/Dodge/Ramcharger/-/-/1976]][http://www.rockauto.com//url]  for some parts and was impressed.  I ordered them on Saturday afternoon and they arrived on Tuesday.  They use Fedex ground. The prices were real good also.  They have clearance items that are name brand for cheap.

I ordered a complete weatherstrip kit from [urlhttp://www.1aauto.com/1A/Weatherstrip/Dodge/Ramcharger/-/-/1976] for just under a $100.  Both door seals, both inner and outer belt-lines for both doors, and both window channnels too.  This is the second time I've used them and it is good quality product.

[rjtx667]

what is your plan now? you going to replace the knuckles out? or replace the whole front axle?

Rock auto is good, but you have to watch it sometimes the shipping makes it cost more than going down to the store and getting it.

Amazon, if you have amazon prime, can also be a good place to get auto parts strangely enough.

[SixGun]

Amazon prime?  I'll have to remember that. I used Amazon for my Borgeson shaft and winch if I'm not mistaken got some real good prices.

I needed to replace the center link on my 91 D150 and around town the cheapest was $70.  I was able to pick up the centerlink, idler arm, and 2 tie rods for just under $70 shipped.  They were all name brand too.

Here's my dilema on the axles.  Been reading up on them and it seems that they may have a bad rap.  PowerWagonPete swears by them and a few others.  Key seems to be maintenance, maintenance, maintenance...

At this point, though, I'm not even sure if mine are in good shape.  All I know is that they roll. LOL  I am thinking that the knuckles out swap may keep it simpler which means cheaper in the long run.  This is a budget build and also focused on getting it running in time for RamJam or MTR whatever the case may be.  Mopar Truck Reunion ... ha ha ha.

I do want to get with you on the seats situation.  I've got to get taking off to work right now but I'll shoot you an email tonight.



http://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/1979-44-fbj-rotor-problem/

[Dodgestrike]

I can tell you they're a good axle but when the unit bearing fails , its not pretty and maintenance would not help them alot with 35" or bigger tires.

what I would do is use the one you already have and use the knuckles , stub axles , hubs etc from a newer axle. that way you get the best of both words the big hubs and the one piece axles.

[Dodgestrike]

just cheked the rockcharger thread , that's what I was saying but a little more explained 

[SixGun]

I can tell you they're a good axle but when the unit bearing fails , its not pretty and maintenance would not help them alot with 35" or bigger tires.

I would really like to share the 33's I bought for the 91 D150 since they probably would dry rot before I wore them out.    5x5.5 bolt pattern though.  Another reason for the knuckles out swap.  33's would be on the verge for the 5x4.5 axles.  The tires on there now are 30x9.5x15.  Tread is still good too.  Rims are a little rough though but usuable for now.  So if I were to get a 92 or 93 9.25 rearend would it just swap directly out as long as it has the 3.55 gears like I have now?  Any differences from 76 that I would have to deal with?

[Dodgestrike]

if you're going to swap the whole axle , just remove one and put the other one in place ofcourse the gears have to match with the ones on the front. the other way is just swap axleshafts and drums I think