Brake Lines

[SixGun]

So I'm surfing around looking at brake lines and by application, it appears to be either 1/4" or 3/16".   Are both used? Body vs axle or what? I don't want to tear off the steel coils to get an accurate measure if I don't have to.

[crazzywolfie]

all the steel brake line should be 3/16". if your making your own brake lines it is advisable to buy a cheap tubing bender to make the bends nice and clean.

[ProjectPW]

Which brake lines are you doing? All the lines on the axle are3/16 with standard 3/8 tube nuts...the lines up at the master and at the proportion valve use a slightly larger tube nut on some of the connections but are still 3/16 line. The line from the prop valve to the rear brake hose may be 1/4

[SixGun]

I have a couple of benders that I used for fuel lines in the past. One is manual and the other uses a bolt like on a gear puller to push it into shape and has several bender sizes.

I want to do the axle lines for sure since they were a bit crispy with rust.. Debating on the prop valve ones. 

[crazzywolfie]

if in doubt you should probably replace them. what is a whole $30 when it comes to your own safety? it also give you a chance to flush your brake system.

[ProjectPW]

I have a couple of benders that I used for fuel lines in the past. One is manual and the other uses a bolt like on a gear puller to push it into shape and has several bender sizes.

I want to do the axle lines for sure since they were a bit crispy with rust.. Debating on the prop valve ones.

its a bunch of work to do all of them- you will run into having to reuse old tube nuts in a couple of spots and double flare the lines that you cut to length or have to use the odd ball tube nuts on - not too hard but this is assuming everything comes apart nicely at the prop valve- my advice to you is to make sure you have new hoses and install some new 3/16 hard lines on the axles if they look iffy-- flush the rest of the old lines with clean brake fluid and compressed air to verify no blockages. install a new master cylinder/booster and drive it like you stole it 

[crazzywolfie]

its not that much work especially if your working on a truck that is slightly lifted. i pretty much replaced most of the lines on my 93 in an afternoon. its not like you have much choice when you blow a brake line or 2. i think there might only be only the 2 tube nuts at the MC that are odd balls. i am pretty sure everything else used normal brake line fittings.

[SixGun]

Well now that I have an idea what to look for I can make a determination when I get into it.  Definitely looking at the new rubber lines since mine are dry rotted.  I already bought a new MC and I picked up another booster in like new condition.

[crazzywolfie]

just make sure the new booster works before you throw the old one away or whatever your plan is for it. i know there was someone over on DF that got a couple defective power brake boosters brand new from the parts stores.

[ProjectPW]

its not that much work especially if your working on a truck that is slightly lifted. i pretty much replaced most of the lines on my 93 in an afternoon. its not like you have much choice when you blow a brake line or 2. i think there might only be only the 2 tube nuts at the MC that are odd balls. i am pretty sure everything else used normal brake line fittings.

There is one odd ball tube nut on the prop valve for the output to the rear 

[crazzywolfie]

i don't remember that one on any of my trucks 

[SixGun]

just make sure the new booster works before you throw the old one away or whatever your plan is for it. i know there was someone over on DF that got a couple defective power brake boosters brand new from the parts stores.

The booster I picked up was on a working truck.  Gonna keep the old one.  It is ugly but if it works, someone could use it.  It is the small diameter 440 booster. Sitting with no hood on for years made it look fugly.  Internals may be good though.  I don't need it for clearance since my engine is the low deck 383.

I will keep an eye out for the odd ball nuts on the MC and prop valve. Thanks guys.

[crazzywolfie]

i don't know if you got brake line or not yet but it might be worth looking into getting the brake line that is coated. i know my local parts store has this stuff with some sort of coating on it and it is only $5 more per roll. to me the extra $5 is worth a try. can't hurt. i waste money on stupider things

[SixGun]

Do you have a link with what you are talking about?  My brake lines have those coils around them but on the brake lines at NAPA they don't have any.  What is the purpose of it and is it okay to get them without?

[crazzywolfie]

the brake line with the coils around it is armor coated. it is ok to get the stuff without it but i think the stuff with the armor coating tends to last a lot longer. that is also why i suggested possibly looking into coated brake line. it might last longer with what you plan on using it for. the normal not coated stuff usually starts rusting on the outside without some sort of protective coating.