Welcome back Carter

[SixGun]

I figure that any used sending unit could use a new screen for just $10. Heck that's just the price of lunch. Good insurance. Not to mention that I'm really curious how easy it is to change.

[SixGun]

Been messing with my power door lock on the passenger side. It no workie and I don't want to put anything worth ripping off in the truck without at least a door lock. So after awhile I notice that the door lock switch is broken and so the wiring is not connected.  After closer inspection, I see that the actuator is locked up which probably caused the forcing of the switch to break it. Both the switch and the actuator of course are discontinued items. Found an old RCC thread about using universal actuators. They are only $10 so I ordered a pair to fab something up. The switch will have to be a JY item.

[ProjectPW]

Been messing with my power door lock on the passenger side. It no workie and I don't want to put anything worth ripping off in the truck without at least a door lock. So after awhile I notice that the door lock switch is broken and so the wiring is not connected.  After closer inspection, I see that the actuator is locked up which probably caused the forcing of the switch to break it. Both the switch and the actuator of course are discontinued items. Found an old RCC thread about using universal actuators. They are only $10 so I ordered a pair to fab something up. The switch will have to be a JY item.

does yours have the black plastic actuators or the metal cylindrical type?

[SixGun]

Big heavy metal cylinder.

[SixGun]

Digging around in the garage and ran across a set of Hella driving lights I picked up on clearance some time back.  Mounted them but curious about wiring them up. I would like to use them as low beam driving lights like you see on quite a few vehicles now a days.  I've read that the Hella 500's 55watt are pretty bright.  I've also read that regular headlights are 55 watts also. Sounds do-able.  Are these illegal in Texas for low beam use?  Any thoughts on this?

[ProjectPW]

I think that if you adjusted them low enough that you could probably avoid trouble and run them at all times with low beam. To wire on low beam only use a relay that is powered on by the low beam output wire that comes out of the dimmer switch. run the relay ground to a toggle switch so you can turn them off if you want. power for the lights should be fused (20-30amp) and be run in 10-12gauge wire to the relay from the battery or off the starter relay post if there is room. Run the same larger wire from the relay to the lights (fuse optional) your ground for the lights will come from a ground wire on the core support (make sure core support is grounded to baterry - 

It is also a really good idea to do this for your standard headlights also. The way the factory did it is pretty crappy and can result in burned out headlight switches and flickering high beams 

[crazzywolfie]

^^i agree. if you put the headlights on relays then you could just wire those lights in with the relay harness. here is a very good diy for putting your headlights on relays and it even shows you how to keep your low beams on while your highs are on if you want to do that. makes a huge difference when driving down a dark road that you need your high beams on.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=176263

[SixGun]

Thanks guys. 

[SixGun]

After analyzing it for awhile, I came up with a plan of action for the door lock actuator. The new one is pretty close in length to the original but a completely different shape and attachment points.  I first made some marks to remember which end was what on the bracket and then I drilled out the 4 spot welds. Next I hammered the bracket flat and tweaked it a bit to make it perfectly flat since the original contoured to the large cylinder. Then I drilled 2 set holes for the 2 dimples on the flat side of the new actuator.  Took some careful measurements since they are slightly offset from each other. Used 2 zip ties through the spot weld holes and anchored through the attachment barrels. Its pretty snug and doesnt wiggle because the set holes/ dimples keep it in place. 

Fairly easy to do but still need to find a switch at the JY. I've got high hopes for this repair.

[SixGun]

Well its official now. Ramcharger gas tanks are a major pain in the ass. Especially in comparison to the side tank on my RAM.

On the good side, I finally put it back and buttoned it up. Now it to clean up for date night with the missus.

[SixGun]

Since Ryan went to D60, he gave me a 9-1/4 for Carter.   

[crazzywolfie]

sweet. so are you going to install a crush sleeve eliminator kit before you install it?

[SixGun]

Seals and crush sleeve eliminator are the plan.  After taking some measurements today, it looks like I will need a combo joint. 7290/7260.  The yoke on the 9-1/4 surprisingly sticks out 2" less than the 8-1/4 axle but it looks like my trans yoke can take it. I want to take it apart to see if it truly has a LS and what shape its in. It was in a running truck.

[crazzywolfie]

ok. maybe you can take lots of pictures. i want to install one in my ramcharger but a bit scared to mess anything up since it is pretty much my daily driver. my LSD still works pretty good in the ramcharger . i test it out regularly.

rockauto sells crush sleeve eliminator kits but i don't know if they are any good or not. only a couple $$ cheaper than the other ones i have seen so i figure the quality must be about the same

[SixGun]

I actually have one that I ordered some time back for the 76. Came with no directions.  Looks like a spacer and some real thin shims. Hopefully there's a writeup or good video somewhere.