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Started by SixGun, June 06, 2014, 11:21:30 PM

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SixGun

"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

The War Wagon

Restoring/building a War Wagon - good advice ALWAYS welcome!

crazzywolfie

it is a brake controller for  trailer with electric brakes.

SixGun

#48
I have sought and been given advice from at least 5 persons on starting this engine.  The last time it was inspected was 2010, so its been sitting about 4 years. The advice given is pretty much summed up on aother forum discussion below in case anyone needs this same advice.  Thanks to all who have answered my texts, sent me pm's and responded on this thread. You guys are great. :notworthy:

Reply
  #5 
10-14-2007 11:49 PM by C-700
There is a lot you can do. But it is always a good idea to make sure you have a sound engine before spending any unnessary money. If the engine has a problem you do not want to find you have wasted any mony on it. First, the engine is about as dry as it can get (has no oil on anything in any quantity that can do much lubrication. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER EVEN BY HAND UNTILL LATER. That being said, if it has oil and it is not the consistancy of mud, don't change it. You do not need water in it to fire it off and let it run for a few seconds so don't worry about the cooling system. disconect the fuel supply to the fuel pump to keep any bad gas out of the engine. You can start it by using starter fluid or a little gas poured down the carburetor bores. You do not need fanbelts on the engine to start it but if they are there then leave them. Pull the spark plugs out and take a squirt can of engine oil and put several squirts in each spark plug hole. Don't worry if you think you put to much in, you will take care of that later. Let that sit for about a week. Then after the week mark and pull the distributor out and hand crank the oil pump thru the distributor hole. If the oil pump works you will feel quite a bit of resistance to turning this by hand. Keep turning the pump for a few minutes to get oil through the oiling system. You can now pull a valve cover and see if you had wet oil at the rocker arms. If you did then put the valve cover back on, you do not need to replace the gasket at this time because the little it might leak won't matter for the short time you are going to run it. Put the distributor back in and set it where it was, tighten it down. Hook up the battery, try to turn the engine over with the plugs still out. Spin the engine over using the starter for about 30 seconds that will spread the oil on the rings and throw off any extra. Put the plugs back in unless they look really bad inwhich case you need to replace them now. Spray starter fluid down the carb and try to start it. It should try to start almost right away. If it runs a little with no bad noise then you probably have a good chance the engine is sound. Then the fun begins, spending $. If at any point something does not work like starter or battery you will need to fix what ever it takes to get to the point where it will start. Even the carb does not need to work up to this point. The distibutor and ignition system just needs to be working and set close enough to let it start. A lot more will need to be done before you could drive it but you will have a good idea about the engine before you have spent much money on it.
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  #6 
10-17-2007 11:23 PM by 64fordf100292
i agree with c-700. but i would use marvel mystry oil or even tranny fluid in the cylinders. i would change out the oil though. dont wanna be pumping sludge into the motor after its long slumber.(more tha likely, that oil will be in sludge form) Now, this is my personal preference, I would use gas and stay away from starter fluid. dont like the stuff. to volital for my liking. plus, from what i am told, it burns real dry, and my thinking is, not good for first time starting up a motor. but like i said its my opinion.
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

rjtx667

that just sounds like way too much fun.

good luck
1935 Dodge KC Truck
1991 &1993 RamCharger
2000 RamCharger
2005 Cummins

crazzywolfie

i never went through most of that stuff when i got my 81. all i did was check oil level and color. if it looks ok i would possibly put a bit in each cylinder and then try firing her up. i really don't see how removing the distributor will allow you to prime the oil system. i could possibly see that working on a chevy or ford that have the oil pump gear attached to the distributor but on a dodge i see it as pointless.

SixGun

#51
Quote from: crazzywolfie on June 13, 2014, 10:24:50 PM
i never went through most of that stuff when i got my 81. all i did was check oil level and color. if it looks ok i would possibly put a bit in each cylinder and then try firing her up. i really don't see how removing the distributor will allow you to prime the oil system. i could possibly see that working on a chevy or ford that have the oil pump gear attached to the distributor but on a dodge i see it as pointless.

The distributor shaft drives the oil pump.  Spinning it will fill oil galleries and you should be able to see oil at the rocker arms. Just part of checking condition before spending the money. Marvel mystery oil kinda surprised me. The label shows it as cleaning and breaking down old oil deposits.  Can be used in fuel also. It made no mention of lubrication per say. I would have thought Lucas would be a good candidate and liked the fact that it comes with a nozzle already. ATF has been used for years for its lubrication and preservative properties.  I've seen the burn off of ATF before and was hoping to minimize that by using an oil based product.

Some of that stuff is probably on the side of overkill but with the expense of rebuilding, it is worth the time spent. Determining condition of the motor before tearing it down is a smart investment imo.  The PO was adamant that a bad freeze plug was the issue it stopped being a DD. I can see that pulling the motor to change a measly freeze plug at his age and obviously failing health kept it from being a driver. Good thing for me since the grandson would have kept it for himself.

"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

crazzywolfie

the distributor shaft don't drive the oil pump. the Oil Pump Intermediate Shaft pumps the oil pump and that is driven by the cam. the distributor sit on top and just goes for the ride as far as i know. maybe i am missing something but that is how i see it. dodge engines are different from chevy and ford engines which do use the distributor to pump the oil pump. you have any 2 stroke oil? it is ment to be burnt so it might work great to lubricate the cylinders and should hopefully not smoke too much.


rjtx667

You are both right. The cam does drive both the oil pump and dizzy.

To prime the oil system,  you remove the dizzy and remove the intermediate shaft. From there you buy the special primer shaft and attach it to a drill.

You insert the tool/ shaft into where the dizzy goes and into the oil pump and prime away.

I had to do this on the 408 for the ramcharger to make sure it was oiled up good before the first starting.
1935 Dodge KC Truck
1991 &1993 RamCharger
2000 RamCharger
2005 Cummins

SixGun

Sorry Mat, proper terminology check.  :icon_scratch:

Here is a pic of the tool (shaft?)to turn the oil pump.

Gotta unload. Just picked up some stuff from the PO.
Awesome news is that I found the key for wheel covers.  :13:
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

SixGun

Lets see, what does $120 get you these days. 

2 ton engine hoist,  workmate,  four 3 ton jack stands, hi lift jack, a chock block, carb adapter, throttle springs, valve cover grommets, pcv valve, jack handles, flat tire tool, spray paint handle, and a dog house for when I get in trouble for bringing too much shit home.  :thumbsup:
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

crazzywolfie

Quote from: SixGun on June 14, 2014, 01:54:30 PM
Sorry Mat, proper terminology check.  :icon_scratch:

Here is a pic of the tool (shaft?)to turn the oil pump.

Gotta unload. Just picked up some stuff from the PO.
Awesome news is that I found the key for wheel covers.  :13:
i figure there is a proper tool for the job. i just thought to pull that gear out would be more work than it is worth. i would possibly pull the valve covers pull all the spark plugs and put some oil in all the cylinders and let the starter do the priming . i fired up my 81 with checking anything other than oil level. it made some funny noise for a few seconds like it had been a while since it ran but it eventually ran fine other than the tons of smoke.

SixGun

I put a new set of door locks on yesterday but one of the locks still doesn't work.  Seems jammed. I'll have to remove it from the door and see if anything stands out.

I had done some searching for the rear hatch lock.  Apparently you can take the lock in to a locksmith and they can make a replacement using the code on it. So that's what I did. Its an AMC key and he charged me $16.50 to make 2 keys.  Pretty cool  :13:
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

ProjectPW

1979 W150 "TOP HAND", and way to many other mopars!

The War Wagon

Quote from: ProjectPW on June 21, 2014, 07:47:34 AM
so does it run yet?!!  :steeringwheel:


Shoot - he only JUST got the door opened!  :tongue3:
Restoring/building a War Wagon - good advice ALWAYS welcome!