Welcome back Carter

[ProjectPW]

I tried starting fluid and it was a no go.

And any compression testing??

[SixGun]

Compression better be good. New rings and a fresh hone.   

I've got a compression tester I can use to be sure.

Looked up taking out the ignition switch. Hardest part seems to be removing the steering wheel. No problemo. I ordered a switch from Oreillys, should be here in the a.m.  unfortunately, I'm working a mid tomorrow. It'll be dark when I get out. Daylight savings in a couple of weeks. Woohoo, I can't wait. 

[ProjectPW]

Compression better be good. New rings and a fresh hone.   

I've got a compression tester I can use to be sure.

Looked up taking out the ignition switch. Hardest part seems to be removing the steering wheel. No problemo. I ordered a switch from Oreillys, should be here in the a.m.  unfortunately, I'm working a mid tomorrow. It'll be dark when I get out. Daylight savings in a couple of weeks. Woohoo, I can't wait. 

Distributor 180 degrees off... that one will get you every time... I assume you had the valves cleaned up to go with those new rings

[SixGun]

No valve job or seals. We were pressed for time once we found out the block was cracked. The motor was a nonsmoking running engine of Ron's yellow submarine before he put a 360 in it. Pretty much a bottom end refresh and RV cam upgrade.

[crazzywolfie]

i think you need to just play with the timing if you got spark. starter relay should not stop it from starting as long as it making the engine turn. i don't think your issue is the ignition switch since you got spark.

[rjtx667]

I would agree with being 180* out, I did that on the 408 when I put it back in.

Its a much bigger PITA to rotate it after its in the engine bay than while on the engine stand. 

[ProjectPW]

i think you need to just play with the timing if you got spark. starter relay should not stop it from starting as long as it making the engine turn. i don't think your issue is the ignition switch since you got spark.

Agreed.... The ignition switch is likely not the issue... however the starter relay will cause your intermittent no crank issue. Also I believe the ignition switch on the your RC is attached to the side of the column. I dont think it is necessary to pull the wheel... now on an older model the switch does require pulling the steering wheel.

edit..... if it is a non tilt column it has the old style switch, and will require pulling the steering wheel

[ProjectPW]

No valve job or seals. We were pressed for time once we found out the block was cracked. The motor was a nonsmoking running engine of Ron's yellow submarine before he put a 360 in it. Pretty much a bottom end refresh and RV cam upgrade.

Ok that is probably good stuff. I would recommend pulling #1 spark plug and have a helper bump the engine a little at a time until you feel compression blow out the spark plug hole. Next Line up the timing mark on the harmonic balancer with the 0 mark on the timing cover. Then remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor tip is pointed to the #1 spark plug wire on the cap.... It should be very close... if is way off you may have to restab the distributor. With careful eyeballing you can get the timing damn close using this method 

[SixGun]

Ok that is probably good stuff. I would recommend pulling #1 spark plug and have a helper bump the engine a little at a time until you feel compression blow out the spark plug hole. Next Line up the timing mark on the harmonic balancer with the 0 mark on the timing cover. Then remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor tip is pointed to the #1 spark plug wire on the cap.... It should be very close... if is way off you may have to restab the distributor. With careful eyeballing you can get the timing damn close using this method 

Ernest thinks its the timing also and gave me nearly the same instructions. I'll triple check it but I dunno.  I've done the 180* off before and it tries to turn over and some back firing.  All it does now is crank continuously. No attempt to turn over. Also, it is the nontilt.  Haynes had a pretty good diagram and instructions.

[rjtx667]

any luck?

[SixGun]

Family time  yesterday but hopefully get some time after work today.

BTW, starter relay wasn't it. It was cheap and now i have a spare. Weird 7 pin with no bolt. Never seen that kind before.  2 pins had nothing in the plug to connect to.   

[rjtx667]

excuses excuses... I was sick all weekend and had the boys... so yeah no playing for me either.

not to mention the ice and snow on the ground.

[crazzywolfie]

i could have told you it was not the relay. i think i got 3 of those old starter relays in my toolbox that i will never use because i like the Bosch style ones better. they are more universal. the only difference is they don't have a second output to feed the coil 12v when cranking over the engine but my truck seems to start just fine without it even when it is very cold out.

[SixGun]

Ok OK, so I do have tilt steering on this truck afterall.  Argggg 

Ordered new one and picked it up. Easy peasy to install but nothing. No click or anything 

Noticed the rod is not in the switch so I reach up there and push it in.  Still nothing 

Freezing my bacoonga off. Its getting dark and I smell dinner. This shit is gonna have to wait till morning.....again.

[ProjectPW]

Ok OK, so I do have tilt steering on this truck afterall.  Argggg 

Ordered new one and picked it up. Easy peasy to install but nothing. No click or anything 

Noticed the rod is not in the switch so I reach up there and push it in.  Still nothing 

Freezing my bacoonga off. Its getting dark and I smell dinner. This shit is gonna have to wait till morning.....again.

The factory uses a zip tie wrapped around the column to secure the rod... the switch may need some adjustment on its mounting screws to make the rod engage the start position all the way.... I have even seen some aftermarket switches that need some adjustment with a dremel to allow enough adjustment