2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 2wd

[SixGun]

I was looking at the reviews for the HF engine stand.  The one major complaint is that it won't fit between the legs of the engine hoist. Might wanna get measurements of the other stand to see if there is a difference.  That would be a pita if you couldn't load it  straight onto the stand.

[rjtx667]

Well after I got home from work today I changed and went to play in the garage.

Took me 2 hours to get the injectors out and a bit more... thats not too bad I think.

It then took me about 1.5 hours to get the exhaust and turbo out... man that was a chore... who knew heater hoses could be such a PITA.

After that I worked on the fuel assembly and fan shroud. The FSM said remove the fan... but I have not yet 

A few wires, move the alternator and then a few head bolts... and a few more. I think there were 26 total? about 3/4 of them I got with the impact but still. it was a pain.

The head looks ok, Cylinder 1 has a bit more carbon than the rest.

[rjtx667]

There are no holes in any piston... so thats a good thing 

number 6 got some oil and antifreeze from the head pull, so it is a bit wet.

[rjtx667]

The 6 cylinder seems to have some carbon/ junk at the top of the hole, and it has some stuff that looks like a scuff/ mark... but its all smooth?   

[rjtx667]

So I wanted to look at the 6 cylinder more, so I got under the truck and turned the crank some. It was not as easy as I thought it would be, but got it turning.

No sounds and looked ok. Then when the 6 cylinder was at the bottom of the stroke... had a sound. and... if you do that 1100 RPM I would bet its the knock I heard. Strange thing is it did not make the sound with the head on? 

So now its either the write pin as Noah has stated or the arm bearings?

Means I need to drain the oil, drop the pan and see what I can see.

I need to get input from Noah and Ernest, but my understanding is you can't re-ring these pistons... and if I have to take the piston out to fix the wrist pin... does that mean I need to just do a new piston or? 

its at a stopping point for now. I have to work on my folks car sat, so maybe either after that or sunday I can work on the truck some more... have to research a bit.

[ProjectPW]

So I wanted to look at the 6 cylinder more, so I got under the truck and turned the crank some. It was not as easy as I thought it would be, but got it turning.

No sounds and looked ok. Then when the 6 cylinder was at the bottom of the stroke... had a sound. and... if you do that 1100 RPM I would bet its the knock I heard. Strange thing is it did not make the sound with the head on? 

So now its either the write pin as Noah has stated or the arm bearings?

Means I need to drain the oil, drop the pan and see what I can see.

I need to get input from Noah and Ernest, but my understanding is you can't re-ring these pistons... and if I have to take the piston out to fix the wrist pin... does that mean I need to just do a new piston or? 

its at a stopping point for now. I have to work on my folks car sat, so maybe either after that or sunday I can work on the truck some more... have to research a bit.

you might be able to put in a new piston and rod assembly if the crank shaft looks ok... if the rod bearing ate up the crank its all over 

[rjtx667]

yeah  I figure I am dropping an oil pan this weekend ... should be interesting

[rjtx667]

So Noah,

just to clarify... your saying, if the crank is good to just get a whole new piston/ ring/ wrist pin/ rod/ bearings

Hone the cylinder and throw it back in?

Don't touch anything else in the bottom end.

What about the head? Do I need to do anything to it besides scrap some carbon off?

Plans changed for tonight so I am going to see if I can get the piston out tonight. should be interesting

[ProjectPW]

So Noah,

just to clarify... your saying, if the crank is good to just get a whole new piston/ ring/ wrist pin/ rod/ bearings

Hone the cylinder and throw it back in?

Don't touch anything else in the bottom end.

What about the head? Do I need to do anything to it besides scrap some carbon off?

Plans changed for tonight so I am going to see if I can get the piston out tonight. should be interesting

Yeah if the rod bearing is still tight on the crankshaft just replace the 1 Rod and piston assembly and bearings for that rod ... as far as the head goes I would have it checked out for flatness and install new valve seals and clean the valves at the machine shop. It is certainly a risky repair but if you can definitely nail it down to #6 cylinder only then it would be worth a shot... if the rod is loose on the crank due to worn bearings it should probably have ALL the rod bearings changed.... That can be done without pulling all the pistons by removing only the rod cap and "rolling" new bearing shells in.... #6 rod journal should be measured for out of round and ensure that  it is within factory tolerances before making this decision... it will likely still need a rod and piston for #6 if that is the path you choose. The scuffing you see on #6 cylinder is likely also present on the piston

[rjtx667]

Well S**T





I know what the problem is now... and its not pretty.

[ProjectPW]

damn it... to be expected though 

[rjtx667]

yeah... now I pull the block and the crank and see if it can be polished and turned down. Then I can get 10 over bearings... maybe 20 over's

then go back to the new piston and rod.

Question is... if the engine is out and the crank is out... do I leave it at that?

I don't want to be a cheap bastard... but I don't have the 5k to spend on a long block.. if I did I would have already done that lol.

[ProjectPW]

I would have all the bores honed (should be ok at std bore) .... new pistons and maybe one new rod(machinist will verify)... replace all bearings

[rjtx667]

If I am going that far, might as well get the block dipped and alined, make sure its all good and straight.

but yeah was thinking that... so there is 1500 for the rebuild kit. then start adding on the machine shop services lol. still 2200 is easier to swallow than 4800. And it will be good character building to try and build a cummins 

[ProjectPW]

If I am going that far, might as well get the block dipped and alined, make sure its all good and straight.

but yeah was thinking that... so there is 1500 for the rebuild kit. then start adding on the machine shop services lol. still 2200 is easier to swallow than 4800. And it will be good character building to try and build a cummins 

yep just keep it clean and make sure you have the necessary service manual to set up all the timing and correctly torque all bolts... it is a bit different than a small block, but not rocket science