help me build my 408 stroker

[Dracen]

ok well title says it all... my 98 ram started to have a miss in cylinder 6 and 8 so figured nows a good time to go big or go home.... need help picking a cam.... keep in mind this is my daily driver...

98 ram 1500 4x4 5.9 360 auto with 221,000 miles... 33 12.5 x wrangle mrt tires... 3.55 gears... lots more to list but my computer just told me I have less than 2 minutes before it's rebooting....

[Dracen]

ok  back for a sec... this is my first motor build ever so any tips would be nice as well ... now I have a machine shop going to work over the stock heads... ie valve job and decking and all... they will also be doing the motor boring... everything will be getting fluxed and cleaned as well to check everything first. The plan is to have this done by the first of next month...and while the machine shop is doing the machine work I don't have the funds to let them do the full build which he charges 700 for... that means I'll be doing it all myself.... I have a few of the tools and what I don't have I should be able to either buy borrow or something.

so other than my home done port and polish job on the intake manifold, and throttle body. I have also done larger injectors (factory s 15 PPH mine are 24)

so I called summit today about prices for the stroker kit and found out something cool...they said I can use a stroker kit from an 360LA block except if the heads where smaller than 70cc then I would push the limits to race fuel... and it looks like the factory heads are 62cc... they said a thicker head gasket would fix this....so while I might be wrong heres what I have found... factory for my truck is 9.1:1 compression and if I run the 62cc heads with the stroker kit it would put me up around (maybe over) 12:1 I would rather not have to buy above mid grade fuel... but willing to do 91 (93 is not that common around here).....Any help here is one of my main issues...


O yeah and while the heads are off I plan on gasket matching them

I was thinking that a mild rv cam and lifters..

then a little down the road I'm thinking headers and a custom tuner from hemifever... from what I have read I can get away without the tuner for a while Just have a budget that I don't think can spare the $600 for the tuner.


Pics and everything will come as work starts... as well as a true parts list...

[ProjectPW]

Anything over 9.5:1 compression will not work with the mild cam. Stick with what works... thicker head gaskets mean longer pushrods... comp cams is your best bet for a camshaft. You should call their tech line for advice on cam selection to work with your target compression ratio.

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

[ProjectPW]

Ryan has a very nice torque 408 in his Mexico rc. I am sure he can be a great help in guiding you on parts selection

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

[rjtx667]

Be careful with all this.

I had my stroker professionally built by someone who only does Mopar. The cam also plays a lot into the compression ratio and what you can do with the truck.

Also not all stroker kits are made equally. You don't want an Eagle kit, they have lots of issues. I used a SCAT crank and then bought Mahle pistons. The type of dish you get on your piston makes a huge difference on the compression ratio as well.

Further I can also say you need to know all the tricks. You need Main Studs with a stroker, but there is 1 that still has to be a bolt because the oil pump has to fit in still. Also you need to modify the oil pump for better flow. Does not have to be a "high flow" just better flow.

I would give Mike at MRL performance a call

http://www.mrlperformance.com

he is very knowledgeable and helpful. He can give you suggestions and you can even order the parts you need from him.

My build I ended up keeping the stock 9.1 compression ratio, but that was just fine with me. It runs great.

[Dracen]

after reading this I'm thinking that I might be better off simply getting different pistons with the kit instead of just going factory scat setup... The kit I'm looking at is Scat BTW....

Ryan what cam do you have in the RC? I wouldn't mind my compression ratio staying at factory... I wanted to avoid  more than 91 octain because thats the best you can get in my area.

I might just do a stroker crank and rods then 30 over pistons... I'm still lokoing at options but no matter what the motor rebuild needs to start soon... and I can't have it down to long.

[Dracen]

ok so I'm making parts list please add anything you see me missing.

Stroker kit , includes Crank, Rod, Pistons, Rings, Bearings. it's a scat kit item number 1-198113bi Info below Purple is the cc of the head... my stock ones should be 62 from what I have found

         

CI  (408)   Crank Part No. (9-360-4000-6123-2123) Rod Part No. (2-ICR6123-2124) Crank Stroke (4.000") Rod Length (6.123") Piston Mfg(Icon) Piston Class (Forged) Bore   (4.03) Type (Dish) CC (-20.5) 62CC (10.2)   68CC (9.6) 70CC (9.4), Bal'd Complete Assy (1-98113BI)

Cam/lifters http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-cl20-309-4

         

Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 268/276, Lift .464/.464, Mopar, Small Block, Kit

factory is Stock 5.9L Cam Specs
Intake duration 249
Exhaust duration 269
Overlap 41
Intake lift .410"
Exhaust duration .417"
Centerline 109
Install centerline 117

Timing gear set (double roller)
          http://www.summitracing.com/cart/add/DCC-5249267

Water pump Standard or High volume?
oil pump (mines only 9 days old)
Cam bearing set (order with the cam)
Freeze plug set (brass)
Full engine Gasket set does the one below look good?
     http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-260-1723
Head bolts (arp)
      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-144-3605/overview/make/dodge
intake bolts
180 degree T stat


OK so T stat bolts, water pump bolts, timing cover bolts, oil pan bolts, might end up replaced as well but those will be on an as needed bases. with everything listed above I'm at $2100  in parts. so what am I missing? anyway out of time for tonight...LOL

[ProjectPW]

You need a hydraulic roller cam for a magnum motor

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

[ProjectPW]

Standard volume water pump will be fine.... remember that everything you need will be for 93 and up Magnum engine ... not pre 93 LA


Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

[ProjectPW]

You should price stock replacement head bolts... may be cheaper and perfectly adequate for your build

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

[ProjectPW]

When you choose the cam you should also buy the corresponding valve Springs and timing set that comp cams recommends.... remember it will have to be hydraulic ROLLER... your stock roller lifters can be reused, but I would recommend replacing them...

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

[rjtx667]

I have a 210/220 cam with .512 lift on both intake and exhaust. its a very small cam for a 408 but it creates some good power.

It is a comp cam, but I don't remember the number right now.

I also had to get some mopar performance value springs like Noah said. They were not cheap.

You need to make sure the seat pressure is correct when the heads are built.

I bought after market EQ heads and cleaned them up a little. they work great and have more potential with more cleaning.

Give Mike a call and he can help you figure out exactly what you need. He has built a ton of engines.

Also the other thing to consider, if your staying fuel injected, you need to tune it.

[Dracen]

You need a hydraulic roller cam for a magnum motor

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Thats what I thought as well but the one linked is what summit gave me with the full truck details... knowing year make model and even motor specs....  so what cam would you guys recommend? Links would be great...

You should price stock replacement head bolts... may be cheaper and perfectly adequate for your build

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

well the ARP head bolt are only $91 and the factory (fel-pro) are $36 so that might  be one area I can go either one.

Standard volume water pump will be fine.... remember that everything you need will be for 93 and up Magnum engine ... not pre 93 LA


Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Cool that will save a bit... I figured it would be fine but wanted to check.

When you choose the cam you should also buy the corresponding valve Springs and timing set that comp cams recommends.... remember it will have to be hydraulic ROLLER... your stock roller lifters can be reused, but I would recommend replacing them...

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

I was planning on replacing the rollers as a CYA, I didn't want to go to a cam that needed other than factory heads because magnuns are common to be cracked and I can buy a complete remanned head for under $200 while if I rebuild mine it could be more depending on the needed work.

I have a 210/220 cam with .512 lift on both intake and exhaust. its a very small cam for a 408 but it creates some good power.

It is a comp cam, but I don't remember the number right now.

I also had to get some mopar performance value springs like Noah said. They were not cheap.

You need to make sure the seat pressure is correct when the heads are built.

I bought after market EQ heads and cleaned them up a little. they work great and have more potential with more cleaning.

Give Mike a call and he can help you figure out exactly what you need. He has built a ton of engines.

Also the other thing to consider, if your staying fuel injected, you need to tune it.

I'm staying fuel injected for sure. I was leaning to a mild RV still cam only because I was told I should replace my cam. after all my motor has 224K miles. I will try to call Mike on my day off but honestly from the look of his site I can't Afford Him or his parts. The guy I got doing the machine work has been building motors for over 50 years so I'm also trusting in him. He's known to be very good...  might end up paying the $700 and having it turn key.

As far as the parts going I'm honestly trusting in others to get me lined out The stroker kit I'll be getting through Cleggs (more than likely) and while they where $400 more than I found other places they where the ones to mention the needed piston change... I might go with the cam kit through them as well....  Anything else you guys see? what about other items missed or should be changed Links sure would be a big help. Otherwise I have to trust in places like Summit or cleggs and I would like to be able to shop around for price.

[ProjectPW]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-745-9

That would probably perform well with out to much trouble... keep in mind that the factory computer will not play to nicely with a mild 408... it will probably run, but it will be iffy

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

[ProjectPW]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-744-9

This one is a bit milder and may work better without tuning

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk