help me build my 408 stroker

[rjtx667]

Martin is a great guy and has a great product... his wording for warranty is "24 months you can't break it as long as you follow my instructions to install it"

local places won't even give that long of a warranty!

and yeah the factory rockers are not full roller, but it is a roller cam. The factory rockers are good enough. I put roller rockers on because I had some laying around. The amount of gain they give you is very very small. Unless you go to the 1.7's vs the stock 1.6.

As for bore, I would only bore it if it needs it. going 30 over does not increase the size that much... like 360 to 363 or something. Its small. Only real reason to do it on a standard 360 is if it needs it. On a 408 it takes it from a 402 to a 408 or something like that.

[Dracen]

wow I guess I'm either to picky or to clueless as to what I really need or want ion the motor. so I guess I'm going to end up doing the full motor swap from the 99 then tear the factory 360 down and see what parts I need and what the best parts I can put in it are... Just hate the idea of going from the 360 to a 318... But O well  then I've got time to do an all a true motor /trans build. because I know I'll build more motor than the trans will handle.  Might even end up building a trans build myself so I know everything that goes into it like I do the rest of the truck. as is I know every nut bolt pretty much.  or at least I like to think I do...LOL

[Dracen]

ok guys as You had mentioned and all and I'm not sure if I updated this thread or not I have found a company that is going to build me a full long block 360 with EQ heads  with the larger 2.02 valves and moly rings and a comp cam 20-604-9....  then the programmer and new intake mainfold.

what intake manifold would you guys recommend?

Now i'll be getting the full long block for $2,500 shipped to the house. Now with it being a long block I'm planing on replacing all the bearings on the front. new T stat and water pump. should I go high flow water pump?

Thinking about doing a few oil pan modifications while it's off and adding a more capacity what do you guys think?

I'm simply planing on doing everything I can to make this motor good for as long as I can without working on it again. that way I can save funds for a transmission, lift and tires...

[rjtx667]

A long block should have all new bearings inside it.

a standard water pump will be just fine, I have a standard water pump on my 408. You want to make sure your radiator is in good shape and clean.

If you want to do something with the oil pan, find one for a 2000 ish dakota that has some built in windage tray stuff. They are better than the stock ones that came on the RAM's.


Intakes it depends on what you want to do, I have the Air gap. It works good, I just don't buy into all the Hughe's cool aid.

the M1 intake is also good, people say you loose lower end torque but I have not seen that issue with the trucks I have had that had the M1 intake. I still have a M1 on my trail truck. Its over kill... but it was on the engine when I put it in and just left it as I have no other use for it right now.

[Dracen]

I was think about doing the m1 intake but having a hard time finding one for my motor.  Ryan recommended either the m1 or the air gap.

As far as bearing I ment like tensioner pulley bearing and all on the front of the motor... Sorry guess I didn't explain that very well...

My radiator and all should be good But I might try a flush and cleaning or just look at it with the camera I just got. So I'll stick with the standard flow water pump.

Motor comes with a high flow oil pump standard.

As far as the oil pan I'm mostly thinking extra fluid more than anything to help keep everything cool... And I might add the oil cooler setup I have as I already have it...