91 RAMM'D 150

[SixGun]

Well that seemed too easy.  I pulled drums off and found that a return spring was bent where it went through the brake shoe.  This allowed the cable guide and adjuster cable to slip down.  The adjuster lever wasn't even close to the teeth on the adjuster screw.  So basically the shoes were too tight on that side.  A new return spring hopefully will fix this.  Won't have time to do that today but hopefully tommorrow.

[workgoats]

I don't think I have ever bought a used Dodge truck that some previous owner had not put the rear brakes together wrong.  And that also goes for the two Cherokees that I have dealt with lately.  (They both have a Dodge 8 1/4 rear axle.)

The drive and stop so much better when all the brakes are functional.

[SixGun]

Picked up a hardware kit for $6.99 and replaced the spring .  The cable guide was bent on the lip.  It looked like someone forceably pried the cable around the lip.  Silly cause you only need to tilt the cable adjuster to get it on.  Unfortunately this piece was not included so I had to reshape it.  BFH to the rescue. 

After installing the spring, I noticed that the adjuster lever doesn't catch the adjuster screw teeth.  Trying to remember if it should have a folded lip to catch the adjuster screw teeth.  After messing with it and not finding anything apparent, I decided to bend it to catch.  Seemed to hold but if not I will replace it.  Just need an assistant (Yolanda) to help bleed the brakes.  Won't happen today since she's off at 3pm and I go in at 2pm.  Oh well, maybe tomorrow.  It's a shame because it's a beautiful day outside for a cruise.   

[rjtx667]

best thing (or one of) I ever bought was the pneumatic brake bleeder... no assistant needed lol 

[crazzywolfie]

did you make sure the adjuster was seated properly?

i think you need to get a poor mans brake bleeding friend. i know mine has come in handy even though it does the job slowly it gets the job done.

[SixGun]

Is that to beat on the truck or my wife?     

I like to feel like Mr. Miagi when I yell out "Brake on -  Brake off  Yolanda-san". 

[crazzywolfie]

  lol. i find it pretty hard to find reliable people to help me so i usually find ways to get thing done by myself. i usually pump the brakes and then stick the 2x4 between the seat and brake pedal. it has worked so far.

[rjtx667]

if you have an air compressor...

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html


best $24 bux spent when dealing with brakes.

otherwise this may work:

http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html

I bought the pneumatic one, and man it goes so much faster than having someone pump the brakes. I had issues on the 2000 getting all the air out until I got that, then it was done in no time.

[SixGun]

How much was the pneumatic one?  That 2nd link looks like it would still need some way to pump the brakes.

[crazzywolfie]

pneumatic one looks like it costs $24.99. if only we had a place that sold cheap tools like that up here.

[SixGun]

   Oops, no air compressor - oh well.  Yeah, HF has some good prices but you have to shop around, quality sometimes isn't there.  I've had pretty good luck with them but had to return a few.  They have an online store too.

[crazzywolfie]

lol. i got a compressor attached to a 60 gallon tank . i know places like that occasionally have some crappy tools. i know it is hard to tell if it is a good or bad tool without trying them.

[rjtx667]

no compressor?

Man we got to start collecting tools for you 

so did you keep that heater box I gave you?

http://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/ac-in-a-non-ac-w150/?topicseen

sounds like you need it for your truck if you want a/c in there with the 5.2.

Speaking of, when is the swap now?

[SixGun]

The truck is originally an AC equipped truck and I did not chop anything because I always intended to get it running.  Too many priorities right now it seems.  In any case, the AC/heater box on this truck is exactly like the one you gave me.  Completely different bolt pattern from the RC.  It would have required a lot of cutting and fab.

I have Thursday / Friday off this week.  So if the weather stays clear and the creek don't flood, I'll give it another shot.  Thursday will need to hit the JY for the down pipes on Magnum manifolds and take the truck for a test drive on the brake fix.

I had the kids and wife get me gift cards to Home Depot for Christmas.  I was intending to get a welder and play Ron Jr but I may get an Air Compressor instead.  I know that sanding has a specific requirement from a compressor but I can't seem to figure out how to know if a sander will work on certain models.   What number or rating am I looking for to be able to sand well.  The salesmen don't know crap about them.

[rjtx667]

its all about CFM's

Don't look at HP or the 120PSI.

Look for the 3.4 CFM @ 90 PSI or whatever.

To know what you need find the sander you want and see what it requires.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200353722_200353722

this sander is 5 cfm @ load @ 90 PSI.

Sanders, or any tool that use a lot of air will take a bigger compressor. My little 5hp 20 gallon compressor can't hardly keep up with them, it is running as fast as it can just to barley keep up. Now Crazywolfie's 60 gal? That sucker should run about anything he can find


Sadly to get something that can push 5 cfm is not cheap

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200518764_200518764

and if you want 10+ ccm its worse. Well I say that then I found this on sale:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200455341_200455341

that seems like a good deal, wish I had not just bought an engine (and truck) and parts otherwise I might try to get it 


I am glad to hear you have the right AC box, though if the evaporator is bad then you have to pull it out to replace that, but I believe you can do that without taking the dash out? I would have to look in my FSM.