RamCharger.net

So the RC will be ready to wheel next month right?

Buy the Cummins....

If the that transmission worked in forward and reverse I would say it is worth a shot to swap it in.  Drop the pan first and make sure it isn't full of mud or debris from internal parts failing. If it looks good just install a new filter and install in your RC. The driveshaft from the truck can be shortened for the RC also. You may have to use the kickdown linkage from your current setup as the tbi stuff may not work. I recommend using ATF+4 fluid, and if everything works out replace the filter again after 500 miles.

I am glad to hear that old 383 might get some love it need a good home 

What are your plans foe a vehicle to put this in? 1957 Power Wagon.... 

Ron what is the bolt pattern on these wheels?

Quote from: crazzywolfie on June 14, 2015, 07:41:33 PM
i guess i could see that coming in handy if you had lots of engines with possible wiring issues. i just usually find loose wires work best but then again i don't have any trucks that are pretty much stripped down to the frame/drivetrain

the bad thing is that that is exactly why I spent the time on it. This engine was pulled out of a donor pop top RC we built for ProjectM880 as soon as it was purchased... it probably hadn't run in 10-15 years and the frame it is on will be receiving parts from the better part of 10+ vehicles to consoliate some of the crap that has accumulated around here 

Quote from: crazzywolfie on June 14, 2015, 05:13:04 PM
you really go all out. when i hot wire an engine i usually get lazy and use wire only. no switches or buttons
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U2p610t7Xs

Well when you have all the parts laying around doing nothing it only made sense to make a usable engine starting rig 

I don't think it has ever been done  I would doubt that any ready made adapter is available and the input us likely a 10 spline on a 201/202 which would also pose a problem with the 203 which uses 32 spline output if I remember correctly

It is highly unlikely it is lockup... Pull the converter and look at the very end of the input shaft. If it has splines that do not go all the way to the tip it is a lockup.

I would also recommend using ATF+4 fluid with the fresh rebuild.... dex/merc will work but that shit is for furds & chebbys .... if it doesn't leak its worth using better fluids 

Another tip is to install an upgraded servo like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BILLET-INTER-SUPER-SERVO-KIT-HD-DODGE-TF8-46RE-47RE-48RE-727-518-618-UPGRADE-/330681313546?hash=item4cfe24690a&vxp=mtr

It corrects the problem of the stock servo flipping in the bore and also moves the sealing surface farther up the bore where there is no wear on the case.

Also a replacement pan for a 2000ish truck will add some capacity and a drain plug:

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-265-827-Transmission-Pan/dp/B009T4M1OG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434292443&sr=8-1&keywords=265-827

Since you are running 3.55 gears a stock replacement "high stall" converter will work well without excessive slippage when cruising and give you some punch off the line. Your tranny rebuild shop can supply a good reman converter for about 80-100$... Part number at oreilly's for a converter is CR10h (high stall) or CR10L (low stall)

Yes it works and fuses are for pussys LOL 

Ok just rechecked Erics front springs they are these:

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7721

We removed the overload and added a spring from his old spring pack to make it a 5 leaf pack... voodoo is involved with the front spring selection   

these are the springs I used in the rear:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/exp-13511/overview/make/chevrolet

I removed the overload spring and I had to play with different length shackles to get the ride height correct... I would also recommend ordering poly bushings from jungle to fit these as they are made for 9/16 through bolts not 5/8... I love taking a torch to brand new parts to make new parts work better (burning rubber bushings out) 

Front Springs:

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1463

I am pretty sure these are the same as what Eric is running... We would remove the overload spring for sure and again burn out the bushings and replace with poly to fit the 5/8 grease bolts

These could be another option for the front but would probably be rougher on the trail:

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7344