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#2
Documentation / TSB for left side lean
May 04, 2013, 04:31:43 AM
TSB 02-05-87 Rev A
Date: December 7, 1987
Models: 1985-1988 "W"' & "AW" Series Four- Wheel Drive Vehicles
This bulletin supersedes Technical Service Bulletin 02-05-87, adding 1988 models.
Symptom/Condition:
Vehicle leaning or low on the left side
Parts Required: Spring Spacer Package 4397949 Consists of:
1 Spacer PN 4404171
2 U-Bolts PN 4404151 (Spicer Model 44 Axle)
2 U-Bolts PN 4404240 (Spicer Model 60 Axle)
4 Nuts PN 6029459
Repair Procedure:
This repair procedure describes the installation of a spacer block between the left front spring and axle assembly.
1. Using a hoist or hydraulic crane hooked to the towing eyes or at frame attachment, raise truck until weight is removed from front springs.
2. With wheels still touching the floor, install stands under side frame members as a safety precaution,
3. Remove the four nuts, lock washers, and both "U" bolts securing the left spring to the axle.
4. Raise vehicle slightly and insert spring spacer, PN 4404171, between spring and axle. Be sure spring center bolt aligns with locating hole in spacer and axle pad.
NOTE: ONLY ONE SPACER IS TO BE USED - DO NOT STACK.
5. Install the two new "U" bolts, new lock washers, and nuts and tighten until nuts push lock washers against axle spring plate.
NOTE. "U" BOLTS (SHORTER ONES), PN 4404151, ARE TO BE USED ONLY WITH THE SPICER MODEL 44 AXLE. "U" BOLTS (LONGER ONES), PN 4404240, ARE TO BE USED ONLY WITH THE SPICER MODEL 60 AXLE.
6. Remove stands from under frame and lower truck so weight is resting on wheels. Tighten "U" bolt nuts to 95 foot pounds.
Notes:
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No. 02-27-05-90 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE: 6X - Weak
Date: December 7, 1987
Models: 1985-1988 "W"' & "AW" Series Four- Wheel Drive Vehicles
This bulletin supersedes Technical Service Bulletin 02-05-87, adding 1988 models.
Symptom/Condition:
Vehicle leaning or low on the left side
Parts Required: Spring Spacer Package 4397949 Consists of:
1 Spacer PN 4404171
2 U-Bolts PN 4404151 (Spicer Model 44 Axle)
2 U-Bolts PN 4404240 (Spicer Model 60 Axle)
4 Nuts PN 6029459
Repair Procedure:
This repair procedure describes the installation of a spacer block between the left front spring and axle assembly.
1. Using a hoist or hydraulic crane hooked to the towing eyes or at frame attachment, raise truck until weight is removed from front springs.
2. With wheels still touching the floor, install stands under side frame members as a safety precaution,
3. Remove the four nuts, lock washers, and both "U" bolts securing the left spring to the axle.
4. Raise vehicle slightly and insert spring spacer, PN 4404171, between spring and axle. Be sure spring center bolt aligns with locating hole in spacer and axle pad.
NOTE: ONLY ONE SPACER IS TO BE USED - DO NOT STACK.
5. Install the two new "U" bolts, new lock washers, and nuts and tighten until nuts push lock washers against axle spring plate.
NOTE. "U" BOLTS (SHORTER ONES), PN 4404151, ARE TO BE USED ONLY WITH THE SPICER MODEL 44 AXLE. "U" BOLTS (LONGER ONES), PN 4404240, ARE TO BE USED ONLY WITH THE SPICER MODEL 60 AXLE.
6. Remove stands from under frame and lower truck so weight is resting on wheels. Tighten "U" bolt nuts to 95 foot pounds.
Notes:
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No. 02-27-05-90 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE: 6X - Weak
#4
Documentation / Mag motor plug wire TSB
May 04, 2013, 04:27:55 AM
Date: December 30, 1998
Models: 1994-1999 BR/BE Ram
Note: applies to vehicles with 3.9L, 5.2L and 5.9L engines (gas)
1991 - 1999 (AN) Dakota
1994 - 1999 (BR/BE) Ram Truck
1998 - 1999 (DN) Durango
1995 - 1999 (XJ) Cherokee
1994 - 1999 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee
Symptoms: some vehicles may exhibit one or more of these symptoms:
spark knock complaints with vehicle under load
various single cylinder misfire (1, 3, 7,) ad especially 5 and/or 8
surge in 4th gear with the Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) engaged (around 45MPH).
Perceived torque converter EMCC engagement/ disengagement around 45 MPH.
Diagnosis:
Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS/MDS2) or the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRB III), verify that all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If other DTC's are present, repair as necessary before proceeding with this bulletin. If no other DTC's are present and the above symptoms have been reported by the customer, perform the repair procedure.
NOTE: This rerouting procedure should be performed before any other misfire, surge, or spark knock repairs are attempted.
Parts:
3 56028186 Clip, single wire
2 06503441 Clip, wire to hose (5.2L, 5.9L)
1 04364375 Convolute, 10 ft roll
Repair: The repair procedure involves rerouting the coil wires and/or the plug wires to minimize induction effects.
NOTE: IF WIRES MUST CROSS DURING THE REROUTE PROCEDURE, THEY MUST CROSS AT A RIGHT ANGLE.
5.2L and 5.9L ENGINE PROCEDURE
A - Coil Wire Routing (Fig 1 & Fig 2).
Remove coil wire from distributor cap tower terminal.
Remove coil wire from the rear five-wire clip, the center three-wire clip, and the front one-wire clip along the lower side of the right valve cover.
Install 3 one wire clips along the top and front of the valve cover. Use the valve cover retaining bolt studs (Fig 1).
Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil and working toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
Install the coil wire into the one wire clips. This may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover and before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs.
Cut the ignition wire convolute into three lengths 8", 4", and 3.25" (203 mm, 101.5 mm, 82.5 mm).
Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the clips. Install the 3.25" section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the 8" and the 4" sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover and before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs.
Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold in front of the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: The coil wire must be a minimum of 1" away from any other ignition wires. This may require the coil wire to be routed under the vacuum and/or wire harnesses in the right rear corner of the intake manifold.
Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil tower terminal.
Use the original piece of coil wire convolute to protect the wire against chafing by components at the rear of the engine.
B - Number 8 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Fig 3).
Remove the #8 plug wire from the distributor tower terminal.
Remove the #8 plug wire from the five-wire clip at the lower rear of the valve cover.
Route the #8 plug wire over the rear quarter of the right valve cover (Fig 3).
Reposition the original piece of plug wire convolute to prevent the wire from chafing at the right valve cover and with other engine components.
Secure the #8 plug wire and convolute in place with the hose to wire clip. The small end of the clip supports the convolute. The large end of the clip attaches to the heater hose.
NOTE: Make sure the #8 plug wire is secure and away from the #4 plug wire. Make certain it will not fall to contact the cylinder head or exhaust components.
Install the #8 plug wire into its distributor cap terminal.
C - Number 4 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 4 & Fig 5).
Remove the #4 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap terminal.
At the center of the lower side of the right valve cover is three-wire clip. Keep the #2 and #4 plug wires from crossing each other at this clip. Position the #2 plug wire in the top wire slot and the #4 wire in the bottom wire slot. Leave the middle slot empty (Fig 5).
Keep the plug wires from crossing and chafing each other at the five-wire clip found at the right rear lower side of the valve cover. Position the #4 plug wire in a slot that will space it farthest away from the #8 plug wire (Fig 6). Remove any slack in the #4 plug wire between the three-wire and the five-wire clips.
NOTE: Earlier model five-wire clips look slightly different but the same wiring layout applies.
Route the #4 plug wire behind the transmission dipstick tube and heater hoses.
NOTE: Make sure that the #4 plug wire is at least one inch away from the #8 wire.
Install the #4 Plug wire to its distributor cap terminal (Fig 7).
D - Number 7 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 8 & Fig 9)
Verify that the #7 plug wire crosses over the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the #3 and the #6 tower terminals (Fig
. This is the original wire routing on 1998 and earlier models.
For 1999 models, the #7 plug wire was shortened. Reroute the #7 wire so that it crosses the distributor cap and leaves the cap between the #6 and #5 tower terminals (Fig 9).
NOTE: Make sure the #7 plug wire is at least one inch away from the #5 wire.
E - Number 5 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 10)
Remove the #5 plug wire from the distributor cap terminal.
Remove the #5 plug wire from the five-wire clip found at the lower rear of the left valve cover.
Route the #5 plug wire over the left valve cover and in front of the breather tube elbow.
Position the original convolute from the #5 wire to prevent chafing against the valve cover and any engine components. Secure the small end of the hose to wire clip over the convolute. Secure the large end of the hose to wire clip to the breather hose.
NOTE: Make sure the #5 plug wire is secure and away from the #7 plug wire. Make certain it will not fall down and contact the cylinder head and/or exhaust components.
notes:
Policy: Reimbursable within the terms of the warranty.
Labor charge: V6 ...... 0.2 Hrs.
V8 ...... 0.4 Hrs.
Models: 1994-1999 BR/BE Ram
Note: applies to vehicles with 3.9L, 5.2L and 5.9L engines (gas)
1991 - 1999 (AN) Dakota
1994 - 1999 (BR/BE) Ram Truck
1998 - 1999 (DN) Durango
1995 - 1999 (XJ) Cherokee
1994 - 1999 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee
Symptoms: some vehicles may exhibit one or more of these symptoms:
spark knock complaints with vehicle under load
various single cylinder misfire (1, 3, 7,) ad especially 5 and/or 8
surge in 4th gear with the Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) engaged (around 45MPH).
Perceived torque converter EMCC engagement/ disengagement around 45 MPH.
Diagnosis:
Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS/MDS2) or the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRB III), verify that all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If other DTC's are present, repair as necessary before proceeding with this bulletin. If no other DTC's are present and the above symptoms have been reported by the customer, perform the repair procedure.
NOTE: This rerouting procedure should be performed before any other misfire, surge, or spark knock repairs are attempted.
Parts:
3 56028186 Clip, single wire
2 06503441 Clip, wire to hose (5.2L, 5.9L)
1 04364375 Convolute, 10 ft roll
Repair: The repair procedure involves rerouting the coil wires and/or the plug wires to minimize induction effects.
NOTE: IF WIRES MUST CROSS DURING THE REROUTE PROCEDURE, THEY MUST CROSS AT A RIGHT ANGLE.
5.2L and 5.9L ENGINE PROCEDURE
A - Coil Wire Routing (Fig 1 & Fig 2).
Remove coil wire from distributor cap tower terminal.
Remove coil wire from the rear five-wire clip, the center three-wire clip, and the front one-wire clip along the lower side of the right valve cover.
Install 3 one wire clips along the top and front of the valve cover. Use the valve cover retaining bolt studs (Fig 1).
Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil and working toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end.
Install the coil wire into the one wire clips. This may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover and before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs.
Cut the ignition wire convolute into three lengths 8", 4", and 3.25" (203 mm, 101.5 mm, 82.5 mm).
Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the clips. Install the 3.25" section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the 8" and the 4" sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover and before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs.
Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold in front of the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: The coil wire must be a minimum of 1" away from any other ignition wires. This may require the coil wire to be routed under the vacuum and/or wire harnesses in the right rear corner of the intake manifold.
Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil tower terminal.
Use the original piece of coil wire convolute to protect the wire against chafing by components at the rear of the engine.
B - Number 8 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Fig 3).
Remove the #8 plug wire from the distributor tower terminal.
Remove the #8 plug wire from the five-wire clip at the lower rear of the valve cover.
Route the #8 plug wire over the rear quarter of the right valve cover (Fig 3).
Reposition the original piece of plug wire convolute to prevent the wire from chafing at the right valve cover and with other engine components.
Secure the #8 plug wire and convolute in place with the hose to wire clip. The small end of the clip supports the convolute. The large end of the clip attaches to the heater hose.
NOTE: Make sure the #8 plug wire is secure and away from the #4 plug wire. Make certain it will not fall to contact the cylinder head or exhaust components.
Install the #8 plug wire into its distributor cap terminal.
C - Number 4 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 4 & Fig 5).
Remove the #4 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap terminal.
At the center of the lower side of the right valve cover is three-wire clip. Keep the #2 and #4 plug wires from crossing each other at this clip. Position the #2 plug wire in the top wire slot and the #4 wire in the bottom wire slot. Leave the middle slot empty (Fig 5).
Keep the plug wires from crossing and chafing each other at the five-wire clip found at the right rear lower side of the valve cover. Position the #4 plug wire in a slot that will space it farthest away from the #8 plug wire (Fig 6). Remove any slack in the #4 plug wire between the three-wire and the five-wire clips.
NOTE: Earlier model five-wire clips look slightly different but the same wiring layout applies.
Route the #4 plug wire behind the transmission dipstick tube and heater hoses.
NOTE: Make sure that the #4 plug wire is at least one inch away from the #8 wire.
Install the #4 Plug wire to its distributor cap terminal (Fig 7).
D - Number 7 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 8 & Fig 9)
Verify that the #7 plug wire crosses over the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the #3 and the #6 tower terminals (Fig
. This is the original wire routing on 1998 and earlier models.For 1999 models, the #7 plug wire was shortened. Reroute the #7 wire so that it crosses the distributor cap and leaves the cap between the #6 and #5 tower terminals (Fig 9).
NOTE: Make sure the #7 plug wire is at least one inch away from the #5 wire.
E - Number 5 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 10)
Remove the #5 plug wire from the distributor cap terminal.
Remove the #5 plug wire from the five-wire clip found at the lower rear of the left valve cover.
Route the #5 plug wire over the left valve cover and in front of the breather tube elbow.
Position the original convolute from the #5 wire to prevent chafing against the valve cover and any engine components. Secure the small end of the hose to wire clip over the convolute. Secure the large end of the hose to wire clip to the breather hose.
NOTE: Make sure the #5 plug wire is secure and away from the #7 plug wire. Make certain it will not fall down and contact the cylinder head and/or exhaust components.
notes:
Policy: Reimbursable within the terms of the warranty.
Labor charge: V6 ...... 0.2 Hrs.
V8 ...... 0.4 Hrs.
#5
General Discussion / my photo gallery
April 07, 2013, 07:32:28 AM
my photo gallery on RCC has alot of good info and is gonna be taken down by me / mainly because once l lose my status as a vendor l will lose control over it / it happened to me before when l had other user names [Bogger35/DodgeboysII] and l let my supporter status go and l lost control over my photo gallery / well l,m not gonna let that happen this time / so if your reading this download all you can or want from my photo gallery
#6
Documentation / 1972 to 1993 steering shaft repair TSB
March 19, 2013, 08:45:30 PM
Date: Apr. 16, 1993
Models: 1979-1993 (AD) Ram Pickup/Ram Cab Chassis/Ramcharger
Discussion:
A new repair package with a revised boot design has been developed to service the steering coupler on the intermediate steering column. If the steering coupler requires service, the new repair package should be used.
Parts Required:
1 Repair Package - Steering Coupler 4740761
Repair Procedure:
This bulletin involves release of a new repair package for the steering coupler with a revised boot design.
1. Remove and discard the existing cover and seal.
2. Disassemble the coupler and inspect the shoes, shoe retaining spring, internal bearing surfaces of the coupler body, and the shaft pin for evidence of wear. Replace any worn components.
3. Fill the coupler body 1/2 full with Multipurpose Grease, NGLI Grade 2 EP, such as MOPAR P/N 4318062 or equivalent.
4. Place the boot and clamp on the shaft.
5. Press the shoe pin onto the steering shaft so that it projects equal distance on the shaft.
6. Place the spring on the side of the shaft, straddling the shoo pin.
7. Place the shoes on the pin ends with the flat side towards the spring, engaging the tangs.
8. Squeeze the shoes together, compressing the spring, and push the assembly into the coupler body with the master spline on the upper shaft.
9. Drive in the NEW dowel pin flush with the outer surface of the coupler body.
10. Position the boot on the body and install the clamps on both ends. Be sure that the contact surfaces are free of grease.
11. Work the shaft in and out several times to distribute the grease in the assembly.
Models: 1979-1993 (AD) Ram Pickup/Ram Cab Chassis/Ramcharger
Discussion:
A new repair package with a revised boot design has been developed to service the steering coupler on the intermediate steering column. If the steering coupler requires service, the new repair package should be used.
Parts Required:
1 Repair Package - Steering Coupler 4740761
Repair Procedure:
This bulletin involves release of a new repair package for the steering coupler with a revised boot design.
1. Remove and discard the existing cover and seal.
2. Disassemble the coupler and inspect the shoes, shoe retaining spring, internal bearing surfaces of the coupler body, and the shaft pin for evidence of wear. Replace any worn components.
3. Fill the coupler body 1/2 full with Multipurpose Grease, NGLI Grade 2 EP, such as MOPAR P/N 4318062 or equivalent.
4. Place the boot and clamp on the shaft.
5. Press the shoe pin onto the steering shaft so that it projects equal distance on the shaft.
6. Place the spring on the side of the shaft, straddling the shoo pin.
7. Place the shoes on the pin ends with the flat side towards the spring, engaging the tangs.
8. Squeeze the shoes together, compressing the spring, and push the assembly into the coupler body with the master spline on the upper shaft.
9. Drive in the NEW dowel pin flush with the outer surface of the coupler body.
10. Position the boot on the body and install the clamps on both ends. Be sure that the contact surfaces are free of grease.
11. Work the shaft in and out several times to distribute the grease in the assembly.
#7
General Discussion / donations to this site
March 18, 2013, 02:04:34 PM
my time on RCC is almost over and l,m gonna move here full time [with a bunch of other members ] and l,m not a free loader / so l wanna donate something / l was payin a $100 over there 
#8
DODGEBOYS / Re: NON-DODGE SPECIFIC Diagnostic manuals
February 24, 2013, 09:47:13 AM
this is a complete diagnostics and theroy of how all fuel injection systems work / single point [throttle body] and multi-point systems / plus how each sensor works and howto diagnose them / this is a FREE download and you hafta email me to get it / its a a 8 Meg download
dodgeboysnet@hotmail.com
pending " s eor " preview of the above material to see if its worth distributing to members / you,ll hafta wait till he gives his opinion on the subject before l give it out to members
A good read for those willing to take the time to learn their electronic systems.
Tired of other people talking in what seems like a foreign language when it comes to your truck? Read the book.
Would you like to be able to tell other people in the same foreign language about their truck? Impressive bar trick, amaze your friends with your new technical prowess.
It is a little "deep", but try to keep up. I checked on amazon, book would cost a professional $100, making free a great deal.
I have hosted it online, so no need to clog your inbox.
265pg
Covering electronic systems such as ABS, EFI, spark, diesel, various emissions systems, egr, MIL codes, TOOLS, sensors, security systems...
Some of it may be "way over my head" or "I don't do that kind of work to my car". None the less, you may learn some important questions to ask your mechanic when he tries to start shot gunning and replacing random parts. He may be completely caught off guard when you speak of long term fuel trim, o2 sensor switching rate, voltage drop, ect ect.
If Deano doesn't want this linked, can delete my post.
Clicky
(PM me if it doesn't download/SELECT SAVE NOT OPEN)
Gotta give Deano a big thanks for this one. {cool}
well come and get it / you can either do the direct download above from JOE or if you want l have it stored on hotmail and can email it to you as long as your mail server can handle 8 megs
thanks JOE
Thanks you guys this is the type of thing I love to read.
Thanks Deano...that is beyond totally awesome.
Excellent!
Thank you Dean
anybody interested in electronics systems,a better understanding is always useful in troubleshooting faults.too bad some of those tools are european or expensive like the oscilliscope.
just skimmong it over,it is a good read,very similar to some of the training manuals i have read.
Thanks to both of you guys......
Quote from: offroader_dodge on April 25, 2010, 09:31:37 PM
too bad some of those tools are european or expensive like the oscilliscope.
I agree, things like scopes are probably too expensive (unless you find a ebay/craigslist still on an old mt2400 vantage scope
)
That does NOT mean you need to glaze your eyes over in this section though. {dont}
If you read and find out what kind of waveform would be expected for your type of sensor, you can still speak with your mechanic, to find out if he even used a scope, what the patterns look like, ect ect.
You will find many may not even get that tool out of it's carry-case. With a new understanding, you can be the parts-changers worst nightmare, challenging all of his suspicious diagnosis.
l also agree that some of the stuff is way over the head of most people / but now a days most parts stores offer free code reading / and with the code and a half way understanding of its meaning and a OHM meter with the download above most can fix there own vehicle
l have the snap-on sensor scope and very rarely use it / because in my case l know what fails on which particular vehicle / when l do use it / its on some EURO trash beamer or benz that the sensor is a HIGH dollar item and l cant afford to be wrong / 90% of the time an OHM meter does the trick / plus to get on JOE,S band wagon of checking powers and grounds go,s a long way to fixing a vehicle
Quote from: DODGEBOYS on April 26, 2010, 06:08:31 AM
the sensor is a HIGH dollar item and l cant afford to be wrong / plus to get on JOE,S band wagon of checking powers and grounds go,s a long way to fixing a vehicle
This is my approach to my own dodges. Sure dodge parts are cheaper (I own[ed] both MB and bimmer as well) but even with a dodge, I cannot afford even 1 mistake. If I spend $50 or $70 on a sensor that does not fix my problem, I could go broke within 2 or 3 guesses lmao.
If I was a professional, I would be tempted to take a guess. Why? I wouldn't get paid beyond the 1st hour of troubleshooting, and the more parts I install, the more money I get paid. Of course, even for a professional, the nightmare "comeback" could make those shortcuts costly.
Some may not know this, but even parts counter people have found a way to profit off your misfortunes. Most do not have quotas or commission, but many autozone counter guys do make $$$ off your purchases by scanning your purchase to their own personal autozone card taped to the backside of the counter/cash register. They then get free parts to sell "on the side", so are motivated to sometimes push unneeded parts. Not to mention others who feel it makes them look like an expert to be able to spout off a part name automatically. Car stalls out? Oh ya that's your egr valve and alternator.
As an amateur that has a major beef with the repair industry as a whole, I think diy'ers need to step up the game.
dodgeboysnet@hotmail.com
pending " s eor " preview of the above material to see if its worth distributing to members / you,ll hafta wait till he gives his opinion on the subject before l give it out to members
A good read for those willing to take the time to learn their electronic systems.
Tired of other people talking in what seems like a foreign language when it comes to your truck? Read the book.
Would you like to be able to tell other people in the same foreign language about their truck? Impressive bar trick, amaze your friends with your new technical prowess.
It is a little "deep", but try to keep up. I checked on amazon, book would cost a professional $100, making free a great deal.
I have hosted it online, so no need to clog your inbox.
265pg
Covering electronic systems such as ABS, EFI, spark, diesel, various emissions systems, egr, MIL codes, TOOLS, sensors, security systems...
Some of it may be "way over my head" or "I don't do that kind of work to my car". None the less, you may learn some important questions to ask your mechanic when he tries to start shot gunning and replacing random parts. He may be completely caught off guard when you speak of long term fuel trim, o2 sensor switching rate, voltage drop, ect ect.
If Deano doesn't want this linked, can delete my post.
Clicky
(PM me if it doesn't download/SELECT SAVE NOT OPEN)
Gotta give Deano a big thanks for this one. {cool}
well come and get it / you can either do the direct download above from JOE or if you want l have it stored on hotmail and can email it to you as long as your mail server can handle 8 megs
thanks JOE
Thanks you guys this is the type of thing I love to read.
Thanks Deano...that is beyond totally awesome.
Excellent!
Thank you Dean
anybody interested in electronics systems,a better understanding is always useful in troubleshooting faults.too bad some of those tools are european or expensive like the oscilliscope.
just skimmong it over,it is a good read,very similar to some of the training manuals i have read.
Thanks to both of you guys......
Quote from: offroader_dodge on April 25, 2010, 09:31:37 PM
too bad some of those tools are european or expensive like the oscilliscope.
I agree, things like scopes are probably too expensive (unless you find a ebay/craigslist still on an old mt2400 vantage scope
)That does NOT mean you need to glaze your eyes over in this section though. {dont}
If you read and find out what kind of waveform would be expected for your type of sensor, you can still speak with your mechanic, to find out if he even used a scope, what the patterns look like, ect ect.
You will find many may not even get that tool out of it's carry-case. With a new understanding, you can be the parts-changers worst nightmare, challenging all of his suspicious diagnosis.
l also agree that some of the stuff is way over the head of most people / but now a days most parts stores offer free code reading / and with the code and a half way understanding of its meaning and a OHM meter with the download above most can fix there own vehicle
l have the snap-on sensor scope and very rarely use it / because in my case l know what fails on which particular vehicle / when l do use it / its on some EURO trash beamer or benz that the sensor is a HIGH dollar item and l cant afford to be wrong / 90% of the time an OHM meter does the trick / plus to get on JOE,S band wagon of checking powers and grounds go,s a long way to fixing a vehicle
Quote from: DODGEBOYS on April 26, 2010, 06:08:31 AM
the sensor is a HIGH dollar item and l cant afford to be wrong / plus to get on JOE,S band wagon of checking powers and grounds go,s a long way to fixing a vehicle
This is my approach to my own dodges. Sure dodge parts are cheaper (I own[ed] both MB and bimmer as well) but even with a dodge, I cannot afford even 1 mistake. If I spend $50 or $70 on a sensor that does not fix my problem, I could go broke within 2 or 3 guesses lmao.
If I was a professional, I would be tempted to take a guess. Why? I wouldn't get paid beyond the 1st hour of troubleshooting, and the more parts I install, the more money I get paid. Of course, even for a professional, the nightmare "comeback" could make those shortcuts costly.
Some may not know this, but even parts counter people have found a way to profit off your misfortunes. Most do not have quotas or commission, but many autozone counter guys do make $$$ off your purchases by scanning your purchase to their own personal autozone card taped to the backside of the counter/cash register. They then get free parts to sell "on the side", so are motivated to sometimes push unneeded parts. Not to mention others who feel it makes them look like an expert to be able to spout off a part name automatically. Car stalls out? Oh ya that's your egr valve and alternator.
As an amateur that has a major beef with the repair industry as a whole, I think diy'ers need to step up the game.
#9
DODGEBOYS / NON-DODGE SPECIFIC Diagnostic manuals
February 24, 2013, 09:41:16 AM
this is MITCHELL On-Demand service manuals and cover either
1983 to 1992
1993 to 2001
they cover ALL Chrysler vehicals including jeep
this CD manual is better than a Haynes or Chiltons but NOT as good as a REAL Factory Service Manual
this is a LEGAL copy and comes with a serial number and installation CD with instructions
PRICE / is $ 15.00 delivered right to your door for any ONE of the year spans
you can buy both year spans on two CD,s for $25.00
SHIPPING / is included in the price
l Prefer a bank or postal money order but l will take www.paypal.com
ATTENTION / your PAYPAL hasta be setup with a checking account / l can not take Credit or Debit card payments
buy has to agree to pay ALL paypal fee,s
l can be reached at dodgeboysnet@hotmail.com
Please put the item your interested in the title of the email
1983 to 1992
1993 to 2001
they cover ALL Chrysler vehicals including jeep
this CD manual is better than a Haynes or Chiltons but NOT as good as a REAL Factory Service Manual
this is a LEGAL copy and comes with a serial number and installation CD with instructions
PRICE / is $ 15.00 delivered right to your door for any ONE of the year spans
you can buy both year spans on two CD,s for $25.00
SHIPPING / is included in the price
l Prefer a bank or postal money order but l will take www.paypal.com
ATTENTION / your PAYPAL hasta be setup with a checking account / l can not take Credit or Debit card payments
buy has to agree to pay ALL paypal fee,s
l can be reached at dodgeboysnet@hotmail.com
Please put the item your interested in the title of the email
#10
Vehicle Help / Re: TBI stalling issue.
November 06, 2012, 05:38:31 AM
yup the correct procedure would help
#11
Vehicle Help / Re: crack in rad support
October 10, 2012, 06:43:45 PM
they only crack when the front body mounts start to go bad / not the very fronts but the ones under your feet
#12
General Discussion / RCC and the end is near
October 01, 2012, 08:20:02 PM
RCC has started to strip the powers away from the members / l was moving my photos from one account to another / it must of caught someones attention because over the weekend l can NO longer move my photos on either user name / just for the hell of it l tried to just delete all the photos and it wont let me do it without permission / these are MY posted photos / l was NOT try,in anything funny just moving them and they shut me down
#13
Technical Help / Re: 03 Intrepid Transmission
September 13, 2012, 01:21:40 PM
l posted the info on RCC
#14
General Discussion / Re: RCC Down
September 01, 2012, 10:15:19 AMQuote from: Elwenil on August 28, 2012, 07:58:43 AM
Actually this situation is a good time to make a post in the open board on RCC. Just put it under the guise of this is where we can meet up if the forum goes down again. I don't think that sort of post would be frowned upon, at least I won't do anything about it. Also be aware that many of the guys are already over at one of Sam's other sites, bombedcummins.com.
l,ll make that post on RCC if you will make it stickie and say good stuff about this site / talk it up as they say and tell everyone to check it out
#15
General Discussion / Re: Ramcharger.net
August 31, 2012, 01:41:12 PMQuote from: Ragman on August 31, 2012, 07:38:25 AMQuote from: SixGun on August 30, 2012, 08:56:10 PM
Ryan, did you just flip us off??
I seen that also. That's funny stuff right there.
shoot l missed it / repost it LOL