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got the 88 mini alt on my 440 with non a/c brackets and use a 88 5.2 mini starter on the 440 as well

I have a 97 mini with the weather tight plug spliced on the 85 harness. they work like a charm and only 14$ at the u-pull it.

I did have the first one rebuilt for 65$ 2 yrs after I got it for 14$  still under parts store reman price and so far 10 yrs with them no problems.

I picked up a edelbrock non-airgap RPM intake for 125$ shipped.

I have a airgap and in the mild FL winters it makes it too cold and takes a good while for intake to warm up and stumble go away on my junk.

the early none airgap is the same specs but has the heat cross over that helps in winter temps.

I picked up the edelbrock RPM for the 440 truck for 125$ shipped.

picked up a holley street dominator 440 intake for 75$ + shipping, some one cut all the flashing off it to clone a M-1 intake I think. looks better with no egr pad anyways.

I need to list the RB/440 offy 360* split open plenum intake for sale.

hows the for sale section on this board doing?

I agree, you will need the stock bolts that are shorter.

I just used a good polly bushing kit for my 85 truck getting the 91 cab..same bushing but different bolts.

the RC kit is the same as mine but would have 4 more pucks for the rear bed area of a RC.

here are the bushing for a 2x truck fit and work really nice. less than 110 bux off ebay

look the fuel pump over good, it has a weep hole on the top side of the pump arm that will leak if it ruptures... it could pump gas into the crank case.

I dont ever recall one doing that with a bad pump on a SB, but have had them leak gas from weep hole in pump.

I have had 2 BB engine go out with fuel pump dumping fuel into the cranckcase...dont take long to spin bearings with gas in the oil so might do another oil change before a long trip if possiable.

good luck on the ride home.

I run napa house brand 10w-30 in my 85 stepside with a 91 roller cam 318 engine. same oil for my 88-440 truck = 78-440 engine.

I use the napa gold filters or a wix 51515 filter. ( napa gold filter is made by wix)

I also run a napa house brand straight 30 weight oil in them during the dogdays of summer here in Fl.

I am switching to the full synth royal purple oil in the engine/manual trans/differential this yr to see if the hype on RP synth oil is as good as the clame.

FYI... the flat tappet cams need the extra zinc additive or a good high zinc oil. roller cams can use a regular multi grade oil as zinc is not needed as much.

not sure what yr Rc you have and if it is a flat cam or roller cam engine, as this could make a difference in oil needs.

found the correct oil

mid west gear inc.      85$ + 27$ shipping for 2.5 gallons or 35$ + 18$ shipping for 1 gallon

they are a trans remanufacture company and have all the part for any of the nv3500 and nv4500  5 speeds and lots more..

Quote from: SixGun on December 05, 2013, 02:14:15 PM
I took mine out when the body lift went on.  Love the easy access and I t keeps the motor cool however, this is what happens when truck meets the mud monster.  Hard to remove burned on mud too.   

first thing here is to ditch the open air filter if running no inner fenders.  I used a older unsilenced air cleaner on mine, off of my 68dart.  the bottom was flat and the filter sat on it, the lid was like a bell a little bit bigger than the fitler base,sat down over it and was open on the bottom , this made a nice shield all the way around the paper filter.

I have gotten one like yours wet and sucked the paper filter flat crushing it choking the engine enuff it would not run..well it was flooded with water too but you get my point... not good.

you could tack a piece of sheet metal around the lid you have to make a splash shield for it to save some coin.

my son puts a deep water snorkel made out of pvc pipe on his and does not even run a filter..just a p-trap up top.  must be a jeep thing?


other than looks of a dirty engine and your eyes getting full of dirt working from below on it...wont hurt it at all..my mud truck rarly got washed. only when working on them and then just that area got cleaned.

talking with my brother inlaw..it is the  17.7 inch barrel like in the pic posted, I did not remember the finger grooves on the stock and it has no bayonet.

interesting how a mopar engine is sorta like a gun, no two are a like or like the same tuning specs.

well, that would explane why it is called a Mauser correct? as in general description, it fits in that group of guns.

he sure got bent when i aksed about it. best leave that dog along for now.

i will print this so I can show it to him and explane myself about asking.

thanks for info.

i could be mistaken on it, but from what I remember it does not look like either of those rifles.

i think he said it was a Mauser ? maybe??

no, thats not it. we have the italian carcaino and buy shells at the gun shop for it.

this one is a short rifle, has the flip up sights, on the end of the barrel it has the sight in the midle of 2 other blades that have a 45* bend to them.  IIRC he said it was a german paratrooper/sniper rifle.

has the eagle holding the wreath with swazi in the middle. stamped right at the top of barrel/chamber,  german for sure.  no one seems to know anything about the 7.35 ammo as it is out of production since 44-45 I would think.

been a while but IIRC,clip goes in the top and then spits the empty clip( with a distinct tinny sound) out the bottom on the last ejection.

that could be his garande though...I dont know guns that well.

got me, i know it has a hell of a kick and will bust a grape a long ways off..the fire out the end is impressive at night.

but we no longer shoot it and save the last few shells for it.

as a matter of fact, the old man does not like us talking/looking/touching those few things he has. left. still has his foot locker packed with a nice crisp uniform hanging in the closet. he is proud at 81 and has lost wieght so it fits again.

so for the post highjack. not much actoin over here and have not thought of those guns in a long while.

re-load, yes I reload when it stops going bang!   

interesting hobby you have. so is the main reason to do this is to save coin on ammo? and a plus side is dialing in the gun?

so maybe you can help with this ? I have had a long time. my father-in-law,a WWII Vet has a rifle we only have a couple/few shells left for it. has a nice WWII 9mm Luger as well. he wont say much about them other than he brought them home in 1944.

it is some type of German rifle, bolt action, shoots a 7.35 mm. has the german emblem stamped in it,

seems to be no way to get brass or live shells for this gun anymore. so could the ones we have be reloaded.

I do know it is one bad ass rifle, has about 4 foot of flame out the end of it when it goes bang.

so what kind of rifle would this be?

from my understanding if you do not coat inside and out it will not help with rusting.

when coated on outside it holds heat inside of pipe makes more HP yada yada yada...

but the carbon deposits eat at the pipe like acid and cuase them to rust from the inside out, you dont see this happen till it is too late.

if you are going to spend the cash on caotings inside and out I would buy a better class of headers that are well built with thicker pipe/flanges for longevity of investment in them.

i am not a fan of fancy coatings,, but a cheap well fitting set that burns paint off and rust out in 10 yrs or so is good for me and my junk.

they are cheaply made with replacment in mind every few yrs. i think it is the way they stay in bizness. i know I have bought a few set for mopars over 35 yrs of wrenching on them.

Quote from: SixGun on November 19, 2013, 12:56:15 AM
I would think that they promote rust by holding moisture in.

correct,wraped headers rust out from the inside mucho faster than bare matel with burnt paint like my old ones. due to heat/mosture/metal fatige from overheating..ect.  no waranty if wraped save them $$$ with the CYA policy.

the ones I removed have been on there a few yrs and are rusted but not thinned out much..YET!

now the ones that came on my truck I could just about poke a finger thru them and the where rusted thru in places. no telling the age of those.

yep,got the 79170 hedman hedders for a 72-88 4x4 truck, fit rather well on the 2x truck chassis.

did not have to jack engine or truck up to get either side in  place and bolted up.

made lots of room and will fit the low torque LA style starter (short one)

the 79080 hedman hedders I removed fit and went on/off as ez also. the hedman gasket have been on for 5-6 yrs with no leaks, ball and cone on the bottom is a nice upgrade to headers for sure.

I use permatex copper rtv on both side of the header gasket to seal them up good from the git go, so i think thats why they no leaky for yrs at a time.

these will have a few days cure time so I am on to the next issue.