Symptoms: some vehicles may exhibit one or more of these symptoms:
spark knock complaints with vehicle under load various single cylinder misfire (1, 3, 7,) ad especially 5 and/or 8 surge in 4th gear with the Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) engaged (around 45MPH). Perceived torque converter EMCC engagement/ disengagement around 45 MPH.
Diagnosis: Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS/MDS2) or the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRB III), verify that all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If other DTC's are present, repair as necessary before proceeding with this bulletin. If no other DTC's are present and the above symptoms have been reported by the customer, perform the repair procedure.
NOTE: This rerouting procedure should be performed before any other misfire, surge, or spark knock repairs are attempted.
3 56028186 Clip, single wire 2 06503441 Clip, wire to hose (5.2L, 5.9L) 1 04364375 Convolute, 10 ft roll
Repair: The repair procedure involves rerouting the coil wires and/or the plug wires to minimize induction effects.
NOTE: IF WIRES MUST CROSS DURING THE REROUTE PROCEDURE, THEY MUST CROSS AT A RIGHT ANGLE.
5.2L and 5.9L ENGINE PROCEDURE
A - Coil Wire Routing (Fig 1 & Fig 2).
Remove coil wire from distributor cap tower terminal. Remove coil wire from the rear five-wire clip, the center three-wire clip, and the front one-wire clip along the lower side of the right valve cover. Install 3 one wire clips along the top and front of the valve cover. Use the valve cover retaining bolt studs (Fig 1). Route the coil wire starting from the ignition coil and working toward the distributor. Any excess wire should end up at the distributor end. Install the coil wire into the one wire clips. This may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover and before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs. Cut the ignition wire convolute into three lengths 8", 4", and 3.25" (203 mm, 101.5 mm, 82.5 mm). Slit and install the three sections of convolute onto the coil wire between the clips. Install the 3.25" section at the front of the right valve cover. Install the 8" and the 4" sections along the top side of the right valve cover. This may be easier to perform while the coil wire is loose from the valve cover and before the one-wire clips are attached to the valve cover studs. Route the distributor end of the coil wire down and behind the intake manifold in front of the oil pressure switch. NOTE: The coil wire must be a minimum of 1" away from any other ignition wires. This may require the coil wire to be routed under the vacuum and/or wire harnesses in the right rear corner of the intake manifold. Route the distributor end of the coil wire up the side of the distributor cap and onto the coil tower terminal. Use the original piece of coil wire convolute to protect the wire against chafing by components at the rear of the engine.
B - Number 8 Cylinder Plug Wire Routing (Fig 3).
Remove the #8 plug wire from the distributor tower terminal. Remove the #8 plug wire from the five-wire clip at the lower rear of the valve cover. Route the #8 plug wire over the rear quarter of the right valve cover (Fig 3). Reposition the original piece of plug wire convolute to prevent the wire from chafing at the right valve cover and with other engine components. Secure the #8 plug wire and convolute in place with the hose to wire clip. The small end of the clip supports the convolute. The large end of the clip attaches to the heater hose. NOTE: Make sure the #8 plug wire is secure and away from the #4 plug wire. Make certain it will not fall to contact the cylinder head or exhaust components. Install the #8 plug wire into its distributor cap terminal.
C - Number 4 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 4 & Fig 5).
Remove the #4 cylinder plug wire from the distributor cap terminal. At the center of the lower side of the right valve cover is three-wire clip. Keep the #2 and #4 plug wires from crossing each other at this clip. Position the #2 plug wire in the top wire slot and the #4 wire in the bottom wire slot. Leave the middle slot empty (Fig 5). Keep the plug wires from crossing and chafing each other at the five-wire clip found at the right rear lower side of the valve cover. Position the #4 plug wire in a slot that will space it farthest away from the #8 plug wire (Fig 6). Remove any slack in the #4 plug wire between the three-wire and the five-wire clips. NOTE: Earlier model five-wire clips look slightly different but the same wiring layout applies. Route the #4 plug wire behind the transmission dipstick tube and heater hoses. NOTE: Make sure that the #4 plug wire is at least one inch away from the #8 wire. Install the #4 Plug wire to its distributor cap terminal (Fig 7).
D - Number 7 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 8 & Fig 9)
Verify that the #7 plug wire crosses over the distributor cap and leaves the distributor cap between the #3 and the #6 tower terminals (Fig . This is the original wire routing on 1998 and earlier models. For 1999 models, the #7 plug wire was shortened. Reroute the #7 wire so that it crosses the distributor cap and leaves the cap between the #6 and #5 tower terminals (Fig 9). NOTE: Make sure the #7 plug wire is at least one inch away from the #5 wire.
E - Number 5 Plug Wire Rerouting (Fig 10)
Remove the #5 plug wire from the distributor cap terminal. Remove the #5 plug wire from the five-wire clip found at the lower rear of the left valve cover. Route the #5 plug wire over the left valve cover and in front of the breather tube elbow. Position the original convolute from the #5 wire to prevent chafing against the valve cover and any engine components. Secure the small end of the hose to wire clip over the convolute. Secure the large end of the hose to wire clip to the breather hose. NOTE: Make sure the #5 plug wire is secure and away from the #7 plug wire. Make certain it will not fall down and contact the cylinder head and/or exhaust components.
Policy: Reimbursable within the terms of the warranty. Labor charge: V6 ...... 0.2 Hrs. V8 ...... 0.4 Hrs.
my photo gallery on RCC has alot of good info and is gonna be taken down by me / mainly because once l lose my status as a vendor l will lose control over it / it happened to me before when l had other user names [Bogger35/DodgeboysII] and l let my supporter status go and l lost control over my photo gallery / well l,m not gonna let that happen this time / so if your reading this download all you can or want from my photo gallery
A new repair package with a revised boot design has been developed to service the steering coupler on the intermediate steering column. If the steering coupler requires service, the new repair package should be used.
1 Repair Package - Steering Coupler 4740761
This bulletin involves release of a new repair package for the steering coupler with a revised boot design.
1. Remove and discard the existing cover and seal.
2. Disassemble the coupler and inspect the shoes, shoe retaining spring, internal bearing surfaces of the coupler body, and the shaft pin for evidence of wear. Replace any worn components.
3. Fill the coupler body 1/2 full with Multipurpose Grease, NGLI Grade 2 EP, such as MOPAR P/N 4318062 or equivalent.
4. Place the boot and clamp on the shaft.
5. Press the shoe pin onto the steering shaft so that it projects equal distance on the shaft.
6. Place the spring on the side of the shaft, straddling the shoo pin.
7. Place the shoes on the pin ends with the flat side towards the spring, engaging the tangs.
8. Squeeze the shoes together, compressing the spring, and push the assembly into the coupler body with the master spline on the upper shaft.
9. Drive in the NEW dowel pin flush with the outer surface of the coupler body.
10. Position the boot on the body and install the clamps on both ends. Be sure that the contact surfaces are free of grease.
11. Work the shaft in and out several times to distribute the grease in the assembly.
RCC has started to strip the powers away from the members / l was moving my photos from one account to another / it must of caught someones attention because over the weekend l can NO longer move my photos on either user name / just for the hell of it l tried to just delete all the photos and it wont let me do it without permission / these are MY posted photos / l was NOT try,in anything funny just moving them and they shut me down
there 36 inches tall and there,s a picture of a power wagon with them on it below[click link to view] / l have 6 of them - 4 are studded [studs can be pulled out] and two non-studded / 5 of them are in perfect shape with NO dry rot / 1 tire has a little dry rot in the side wall / all 6 have near new tread / l,ll send pictures if wanted / shipping is up to the buyer / its $800 or best offer for all 6 tires
set of 60,s from a 1991 to 1993 1 ton SRW truck 4:10 gears / the guy i got them from removed one rear axle to count the splines and didnt put it all the way back together so one axle is missing a few bolts / the axles are complete other than a few bolts / they are AS IS WERE IS and must be picked up /l,ll ship if the BUYER handles all shipping problems / l,ll just drop them off at the nearest depot and the buyer can handle it from there / a $1000 FIRM
203 FullTime - its a decent strong case and works good for its intended design, used from 1974 to 1979 and some 80,s / there are some Part-Time kits available and they aint cheap or easy to install / besides you would hafta drive a million miles to recoup the little gas money you save to pay for the expense of the kit / Interchange - the 203 has a weird figure eight bolt pattern and a different output spline count than any other t-case , so it does not swap out with any other t-case made , to change one out you either must also change the tranny or pull apart yours and change the output shaft and tail housing to run a 205-208 or 241 .also if you do change the 203 out you also haft worry about or change the full-time frontend , mainly because the newer t-cases are not designed to spin full-time. basically if you have a good running full-time truck leave it alone , grease the front wheel bearings and be happy
we need one that only certain members can see / ones we can trust / so far thats ALL the members - LOL / l,m NOT paranoid its just l,d like to discuss stuff about the site that the whole world cant see /
on RCC Sam allowed people to make dozens of user names as long as they all had a separate email address / it was done mainly to inflate the member numbers to draw in Advertisers to the site / there's thousands of members that have NEVER posted or have only visited the site that once to get the user name / Now l dont know if theres any way on here to control or limit the fake members / it was just a random thought l had
we need a SITE help - reporting board for things that dont work or for idea,s for new features / for one the pictures upload size is a little small at 768KB / either put it at the 900KB like on RCC or a even 1 MB