93 RC Trail Rig

[rjtx667]

the engine is built to take one, did that on purpose... but question is do I really need one?

I barely stay out of trouble as it is 


What is also fun to think about... putting that engine into my little dakota that has 4.10 gears. 1/2 the weight, lower to the ground... that could be a lot of fun.

[bullboy0852]

Ah cmon, who doesnt need more horsepower?

[ProjectPW]

Ah cmon, who doesnt need more horsepower?

MOPAR = More Power 

[rjtx667]

man it was a long day after work.

Had to start off by mixing and pouring a little cement for my storage building... it needed a ramp.

Then I started in on this sucker again.... sort of. I had to go over to the 91 and wrench a bit.

I first fixed the front axle which has been on stands since, well since whenever I stole the front springs for the 93.      the springs and axle is finally reattached as it should be. 

I then removed the radiator, exhaust, and headers.

I also cleaned up under the truck a bit. It was a side project but all in all it went good and I am happy with how it looks. It is very strange to see a "stock height" ramcharger with 31" tires vs the monster that is the 93 

Once that was done I got to start on the 93. I first had to remove the old exhaust, which was a mess. I cut it in a few pieces and set it aside.

I got the headers on (stolen from the 91) and then got the main exhaust parts on. I have to put on the tail pipes... but first I have to get those out of the attic. That is not a high priority but would be nice.

And don't forget, with the hooker headers you have to remove the starter to get the driver side on. 

Once that was done I finished attaching the accessory bracket, heater hoses, radiator, condenser, tensioner pulley, etc.

I had a temp sensor break on me, so I have to fix that then I can put the alternator on and the belt. I am going to hold off on putting the fan on until I verify everything looks good and no leaks.

I have to fix a few vacuum lines and a few odds and ends and it should be ready to start after an oil change and some antifreeze.

I am happy I am a lot closer to finished on this as there are other things I need/ want to do before the trip.

I want to get the transfer case skid plate on, the old exhaust did not allow it to be installed (truck did not come with one) and so now i will be able to do so.

I need to fix the winch wires and battery setup... I had to borrow the front winch wires and have not fixed those back yet.

I would like to look at the transfer case, but not real hopeful on fixing that quickly.

I also have a new radio to install and hopefully the speakers will do ok.

now its bed time 

[SixGun]

 

[rjtx667]

and yes if the tail pipes make it on, they will be welded 

[rjtx667]

well I was making good progress.

Had the dizzy set and it was running. The fuel sync was giving me issues, but it was running.

then all of the sudden it would not start.... would not turn over. I got under it and worked it by hand, would not go... moved it back the other way... moved a little then stopped. 

played with it some, no progress. Took the spark plugs out and could not find anything, took the valve covers off. all looked normal. but I knew something was bad.. started taking rockers off... then I found this

[rjtx667]

The #1 cylinder dropped a valve head.

Not sure how or why, but its gone. you can't pull the stem out all the way, so its either bent or still has some of it on... but something is bad in there. And I am betting the block is toast because it won't rotate all the way now. 

I set the timing per FSM, and rotated the engine several times when it was assembled and did not hear any clearance issues. The cam only does .458/.467 lift... so its nothing radical. The cam is made it work with factory springs, but I wonder if the springs were weaker than spec and allowed valve float? just not sure.

So now I have 1.5 weeks to pull the engine out of the 91 and slam it into the 93. When it rains it pours.

[bullboy0852]

Ah man, sorry to hear that. Like you said prolly floated the valve. I wouldn't be certain til you pop the head but the block should be fine, prolly toasted the piston crown though and most likely roughed up the combustion chamber. But ive seen guys drop valves all the time on the dirt track, new piston, rod, bearings, valve setup, deburr and maybe rework the combustion chamber, worst case bore the cylinder. After that you should be good to go. If it stalled under high revs itll be worse obviously. What kinda material are your valves?

[rjtx667]

Just stock valves, stock everything.

called the machine shop, they said bring the head in and they will fix that, he was going to talk to his boss about if they could help with anything else.

Guess I will pull a head tonight and see how bad it is. but I am 99% sure it will nee bottom end work now.

[ProjectPW]

Just stock valves, stock everything.

called the machine shop, they said bring the head in and they will fix that, he was going to talk to his boss about if they could help with anything else.

Guess I will pull a head tonight and see how bad it is. but I am 99% sure it will nee bottom end work now.

Maybe not... you said it ran for 20 minutes and would not restart after you turned it off.... it may not be that bad.... I suspect the valve stuck open when you turned it off and it was due to incorrect fitment in the valve guide (got hot from being too tight).... When you went to restart the valve remained open it likely only caused minimal damage to the head, piston and block.... If it doesn't look that bad I would let the machine shop fix the head and run it 

[rjtx667]

your so positive with this engine and negative with the cummins.. how about we swap that around 

The head won't take 30 min to take off (give or take) so we will know tonight.

[ProjectPW]

your so positive with this engine and negative with the cummins.. how about we swap that around 

The head won't take 30 min to take off (give or take) so we will know tonight.

Well we already know the severe ramifications of interference in a combustion chamber... whether it be from hydro-locking or actual mechanical interference the consequences can be dire... I will condone reassembly of more or less easy to deal with worn out engines... those which are a royal PIA get the "treatment" 

[rjtx667]

yeah the 5.2 is a lot simpler and easier engine.

I got a feeling I have a lot of engines that will be getting "the treatment" here soon. Unless I find that there is no damage to the cylinders this engine has to be pulled and gone through. 

I want to open it up just to see what it looks like at this point, I have already resigned to the fact that the engine is going to get swapped out.

Thursday will prove to be a long day swapping engines. The only saving grace is the 91 is already a good bit headed in that direction, no fenders or hood, no exhaust, no radiator. That means about 8-10 bolts I think and it should come right on out.

[ProjectPW]

yeah the 5.2 is a lot simpler and easier engine.

I got a feeling I have a lot of engines that will be getting "the treatment" here soon. Unless I find that there is no damage to the cylinders this engine has to be pulled and gone through. 

I want to open it up just to see what it looks like at this point, I have already resigned to the fact that the engine is going to get swapped out.

Thursday will prove to be a long day swapping engines. The only saving grace is the 91 is already a good bit headed in that direction, no fenders or hood, no exhaust, no radiator. That means about 8-10 bolts I think and it should come right on out.

That certainly helps to have the donor taken apart... keep it simple... bolt that puppy in and turn the key