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Willyreplica from the start...

Started by workgoats, July 26, 2012, 11:16:20 PM

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SixGun

Did you have a title on the Red Beast?  If so, how did you do that one?
"You may all go to Hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crocket

workgoats

I was driving it as a RC. I didn't bother to tell the state when I replaced the body. I only had liability insurance and the body never became an issue, even after a major wreck.

workgoats

I like the added spring.  My Holley 4 banger has been acting up.  I have borrowed another and it's not any better.  I won't have cash for a while due to family stuff coming up so I may be driving the Cherokee for a while.


workgoats

Ok, so I am so tired of carburetors... 

I have pulled out the 90 intake manifold off the red truck, fitted the throttle body and the sensors that it needs and started wiring the megasquirt to go in the yeller truck.  Fuse block and relays for the system are built.  I have the Hall Effect distributor.  I have the fuel pump and both lines from the tank to the engine compartment are already in place.

The computer is built and ready to go.  All I need now is some gaskets, some room to get the truck back in the garage and about 3 days to swap it, change the electrical and then about two more weeks to figure out how to tune it.  Only problem is that the family wants some stuff done too.

I need a Dodge temp sender for the computer and a early CJ temp sender for the dash panel.

The way the computer is set up, I will read the crank position from the distributor, and use the map sensor that is in  the computer.  It uses one oxygen sensor and the truck already has that installed with the 90 exhaust manifolds.

I hesitate to start because the Cherokee is making some wheel bearing noise and I can't have them both down at the same time.

workgoats

Okay, I should have rebuilt the tranny when I started.  After 5k miles it decided to cough up some really neat stuff in the pan.

I have another transmission but it was attached to the 360 Magnum.  So, now the yellow truck is missing the engine, transmission, transfer, skid plate, exhaust, driveshafts, floor, seats and gas tank.

Nick and I had built a RC gas tank to hold the fuel pump for the 96 magnum.  I made room for it in the back of the truck and when I pulled it there were cracks across the top of the tank.  So, I rebuilt one I had in the storage building.  I don't have any idea where it came from but it was built in 1986.  The other was a 1982 tank so I guess it should be good for 4 years.

I have some wiring revisions to do before I start on the Magnum installation but it should fit without too much problem.

I will have to use the exhaust manifolds from the 1990 360 because there is not room for the rear exit pipes.  The y pipe I have will have to be used and it is too small for the engine but there isn't room to increase the pipe size.

One other problem is the onboard air.  I will be going back to a York unit instead of the RV2 that I have been using because I have been unable to locate a serpentine pulley or clutch for the compressor.  Some Yorks had a serpentine pulley and a new one can be found from several places.  If anyone has info on adapting a serpentine pulley for the RV2, please let me know.


ProjectPW

lookin' good  :great: ...... now lets go wheel it  :steeringwheel: a little moon dust/trail rash on top of some fresh wax......... :headbang:
1979 W150 "TOP HAND", and way to many other mopars!

workgoats

Here's where I am now:

360 magnum, wired to batch fire using Megasquirt 2+
360 TBI exhaust manifolds and too small of an exhaust system
727 modified to fit the magnum
242 Jeep transfer
86 RC gas tank modified with 96 fuel pump and no return fuel lines

left to do:
lower radiator hose
one heater hose
adjust bands and change filter on tranny
install tranny pan WITH DRAIN PLUG
install floor over tranny and transfer
install transfer shifter
install inverter
install computer
install driveshafts
heat shield over steering shaft
install batteries and relocate battery cable to front winch plug

Then all I will have to do is figure out why it won't start...
Actually, it should start but there will be a lot of setup left on the computer program.  It should continue right from where Nick and I stopped when it was in the RC if I did the harness swap correctly.

rjtx667

Let us know when you get that close, between Noah and myself we should be able to get you going.

The one thing we talked about, and agreed on, is you need a wide band fuel sensor. They are not real cheap, but without it you will never get it close enough to be what you want it to be.

When you are there, I have the one from the 2000 charger, I plan to play with it a little on the 13 durango R/T if they ever decide to support it... but thats not a major need so it can always be shipped out and borrowed to get yours running good.
1935 Dodge KC Truck
1991 &1993 RamCharger
2000 RamCharger
2005 Cummins

workgoats

I know that the configuration that we started with in Nick's RC was using the O2 sensor from the 96 Dodge.  We only used the front sensor.  I don't have a complete catalytic converter so I don't see any reason to use 2 sensors.

I don't know much about these sensors but it seems to me that if I use a wide band sensor there is a controller involved.  Am I reading something into this that isn't there or do I need a controller also.  If I use a controller, what kind of wiring is needed to make this work?

I am getting close to hooking the computer up and starting on this.  Engine is ready except for the bottom radiator hose which will take some looking at NAPA or splicing two together to attach it to the non standard radiator.  I have to get some more heater hose but that's a no problem there.  I have oil in the engine and transmission.  I think all wiring is complete but I haven't put the battery (-ies) back yet.  I have power steering hooked up, even though the clearance with the fender is close.

I will be without on board air for a while, but I have a good York 210 compressor and there are clutches for it that will fit the serpentine belt.  When I get it ready I will fabricate a bracket to install it where the factory compressor is now.

I went out and took some pics of the engine compartment.  I'll post them shortly.

workgoats

#159
Okay, here's a couple of views, from both sides of the truck.  I couldn't use the magnum's air cleaner without an air scoop in the hood.  Not going to happen.  The air cleaner from the 90 TBI engine fits and there is a threaded hole in the throttle body of the magnum.  It's just not in the center.  This will take a little fabrication but should look as good as the rest of it.

I had to use the exhaust manifolds off the TBI engine as well because there was not enough room for the rear outlets and the way I built the body.

The third picture shows the wiring for the engine operation.  Top arrow is the starter solenoid.  It's stock except for the removal of the wire to the ballast resistor.  Second arrow shows the fuses for the computer, injectors, O2 sensor and fuel pump.  Red arrow shows the location of the solenoids for megasquirt (under the haynes manual).

The fourth picture shows the limited clearance at the power steering.  I suspect that when the hose wears a hole in itself, I will modify the fender.  The red arrow shows the solenoids for megasquirt.

workgoats

#160
opps.  I didn't get the right side pic re-sized.

I'll try again.

The last picture shows the front of the engine.  I hope to replace the stock compressor with a York compressor for on board air.

Dracen

Sure looking good Ron. I should do a custom body over my 97 Cummins ... Body is kind of beat up.... I think you saw it at ram jam... But right now I'm also thinking about swapping the axles into my new black truck... Mindy.... Then just parting out the rest of the diesel I simply don't use it and no way I would even get close to the amount I have invested. 3800 into the fuel system alone.

rjtx667

I have something that might help your air cleaner, it came with my 58mm throttle body, its a bent rod so you can screw an air hat into to TB.

PM me your address and I can send it to you.

As far as the wide band o2, yes there is a controller that you wire up and reads the sensor. I have the complete package. It will work with a ODB II setup or you can just plug it in via serial port to your laptop and get the data from there.

I would not be surprised if Mega Squirt had a way for it to connect, but I am not sure.

Its from innovative motorsports, pretty popular brand.

I have more tuning to do on the 2000, but it will be a while since I need to figure out how to hunt down vacuum leaks. Your more than welcome to borrow the sensor if you want. just need an extra o2 bung welded into your exhaust.
1935 Dodge KC Truck
1991 &1993 RamCharger
2000 RamCharger
2005 Cummins

ProjectPW

Hey Ron ditch the crappy stock O2 sensor you dont need it....The lc1 wideband controller from Innovate motor sports will make your tuning adventure much more rewarding....Megasquirt fully supports the LC1 controller and it will allow you to build really nice AFR maps and get the autotune feature of Megasquirt actually working  :great:
1979 W150 "TOP HAND", and way to many other mopars!

workgoats

Quote from: ProjectPW on May 01, 2014, 07:45:52 AM
Hey Ron ditch the crappy stock O2 sensor you dont need it....The lc1 wideband controller from Innovate motor sports will make your tuning adventure much more rewarding....Megasquirt fully supports the LC1 controller and it will allow you to build really nice AFR maps and get the autotune feature of Megasquirt actually working  :great:

Right now I'm just trying to get it running.  It was marginally running but I found that we had not populated all of the configuration data.  We did not put in any info on the injectors.  Right now I'm concerned about the ignition setup.  I've asked some questions on the MS board. 

I will go to the wide band O2 but it can't happen for a few paychecks.

Here's the basic questions:

MS 2357-C
MS2 Extra ECU w/PCBv3.67
MS Extra 3.1.1

Stock Hall effect crank sensor (60 deg)
fire directly to coil
injectors fire in two batches, side to side

What should the spark mode be?  (Basic Trigger, toothed wheel or what)
What ignition input capture should I use?  (rising edge or falling edge)
What should the spark output be?  (going high or going low)
Should I use fixed advance or table?
Should I use prediction?

It started and ran without the injector info but it was rough and mis-firing at 4000 rpm or so.  It would idle one time and the next time try to run at 3000rpm.

I failed to record a log at that time.  Now I can't get it started.  :dontknow:

Today I have been working on electric windows.  I'll have to do a build on this because it is so simple if you don't mind a small amount of fabrication.